LJ 18th century experts to the rescue

[green_martha]

(gah, I had typed this, but my browser ate it. And lolcat-speak did not make me type eated instead of ate right now. Not at all)

First of all, thank you so much for your sweet words on my little progress. I'm trying to be good and update and answer comments but... in the end it's mostly trying, and then trying to sew... I need more tiiiime !

Ok, I did manage to sew some. I have a sleeve pattenr I'm sorta-kinda-almost-nearly-perhaps satisfied with. I have a pattern for the front zone. I know where my strap and my buckles will be going. I'm not following the inspiration piccie too closely, since my buckles are so wide, I'll need to put one on a strap at the waist, and the other one up at the neckline. I'll look verry good if I manage to get it done in time. Sigh, time.

I have, however, a technical questiona bout the zone part. My redingote will close with a buckel above it at the neckline, and another buckle over it at the waist. Now how do I put the zone into it ? Do I attach it to the corset like a stomacher ? Sew it to one side of the dress and hook it.pin it to the other side ? Anything else entirely ? I am *really* unsure on how to proceed... I can't even remember how heileen's front zone worked last august *facepalm* I feel duuuuumb... Help pleaaaaase ! *big watery kitten eyes*

Comments

[demode.livejournal.com]

What I have mostly seen done on extant garments is that the "zone" piece is actually a full bodice pattern -- ie it extends from the side back seam to the CF. Then you lay the cutaway piece over it, and sew them all together at the side back, armhole, and strap (but not waist or neckline).

[wataya]

That's really interesting ! But it does only work on zone-fronts which close on the front. for zone-fronts with a full piece stomacher, you must speculate... until you have he chance to see extend garnments ! I envy you !

[green-martha.livejournal.com]

As heileen put it : it works if the stomacher/zone piece closes at the center front, but how do you go if you want to avoid a center front seam ? I'm starting to think I might make the zone part a bit like a stomacher, it would give me some room for error and for figure change, as I noticed yesterday that I did not lace my stay exactly the same yesterday than one month ago.

[demode.livejournal.com]

Yes, I do think there COULD be some with a stomacher underneath. For that, I would do the same thing I do with francaises -- pin the stomacher to my stays, then pin the gown on top.

I like the center front closure when I overlap and use pins to close -- I generally try to add a bit of underlap in case I change sizes. I'm starting a gown right now and really WANT to do button closure/compere front, but I'm nervous about needing it to be adjustable!

[green-martha.livejournal.com]

Buttons can be adjusted a little bit as well... ok, it involves moving and resewing the buttons.
I think I'll go the stomacher way. It will be easier to bone the hell out of the zone to have it lying reaaaaally smooth. Now if I could just find my cable ties...