Dec. 15th, 2007

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(Meant to do this earlier, sorry)
From A separate Sphere, dressmakers in Cincinnati's golden age, 1877-1922 Cynthia Amnéus


"The gown Mary Swift Thoms purchased from Worth follows the fashion of the day in the combination of several colors and textures in one garment. Blue satin forms the panniers that Worth revived in the late 1870s, as well as a divided overskirt, much in the style of the eighteenth century. the overskirt is pulled back over the hips to form both a low bustling of fabric at the back and the train. The exposed selvedges of the floral silk, which forms th edraped underskirt in the front, are a signature conceit of the House of Worth, indicatiing the luxury of utilizing the full width of the fabric in a single element of the garment. The day bodice, worn for recieving guests, has a low-cut neckline but appropriately modest three-quarter-length sleeves. The cuirass-style bodice, fitting tight and low over the hips, had become popular in the middle of the decade and continued to be worn into the early 1880s.
The most distinctive fact about this dress, however, is that Mrs. Thoms brought extra yardage of the floral silk whant she returned to Cincinnati. She took this to Selina Cadwallder, a Cincinnati dressmaker, and had the evening bodice on page 87 made to be worn with the same skirt."

Hope this helps !

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