green_martha: (awesome)



So yeah, the justaucorps is done ! It has been for awhile, but I only got to take pictures on Friday. Then there was the weekend, working on the bathroom, yesterday was election day, and only today did I get to put the pictures online.
The fabric was from my old purple 1890s cloak I butchered for outer fabic and lining. I had use two layers of wool so I had more than enough for the outer shell, but the lining, THAT was tight. I just managed to squeeze the body pieces in the old cloak lining, piecing just one back vent piece, but there wasn't enough fabric for even half a sleeve. I thingk the biggest remnant piece I have is 30x10cm.

Lower back pleats


It was suposed to be a piratical / historically inspired coat that could be worn as everyday wear. It took a long time as I had two kids and made many other projects between start and completion, but at least, I learned something about organizing my work and keeping track of my processes. Not to mention, I learned a lot about tailoring - so that now I can see so many of the things I did wrong, heh ! (I'm probably not even seeing a lot of them yet...)

Lower back lining, handstitches, embroidered label


I draped the justaucorps on the wearer, using 1750s patterns as a guide. We went for a modern collar, straight front closure, functional pockets (including one inside breast pocket), and long, straight sleeves. And now I'm goign to pack it tightly into one big flat box and mail it to my dear client and little brother ! :) I was a pleasure to work with him, and I'm already thinking about what's next...


green_martha: (believe)
I just tucked the youngest into bed for (hopefully) a short morning nap, the oldest is in Paris with the InLaws, so I have a little time to work. The backlog is... aaargh !
I'm putting the justaucrps up on Nick, hoping to be ale to get some pictures later today. I'm only seeing the things I've done wrong. Ack ! Tailoring mistakes, bad ironing... It's not bad, it's just... I could do sooooo much better if I restarted it now ! Especially when I compare it to the skirt I just finished, where I really took the time to prep and think before I cut and work with the fabric. (not that the skirt is perfect either, but it's reasonably good) It drives me nuts. I want to take the thing apart and just redo it. except I neither have time nor fabric for that.
Learning curve, heh ?

Teasing !

Jan. 31st, 2012 04:29 pm
green_martha: (Default)

Yup, it's done and it just needs good pictures taken.
green_martha: (Default)
It was obviously needed (especially after climbing up to the sixth floor with the two kids, two bags and the stroller because the elevator was out of order, eek). I just spent two glorious hours mindlessly reading and browsing stuff on my laptop with a candle burning nearby. Talking of candles, I used to get either nauseous or coughing fits from all types of scented candles, but the ones Ikea currently sells are fine by me ! And they come in apple-cinnamon and CHOCOLATE ! I can have a chocolate-scented living-room ! Yay ! I am not a huge fan of eating chocolate, but the scent, hmmmm...
Now it's time for a tea, then tacking the last pleats in place, buttons, a label on the justaucorps, and then making it and the living-room ready for a photoshoot. This includes ordering LED lightbulbs online, so it might take a little more than a few hours.
And people ? Pleeeeaaase stop tempting me with fabric printing. Please don't do it, I don't have time for this !
green_martha: (nerd baby)
Oh encore du tissu !
That's a picture of last week's plunder. The beige thing underneath isn't a table, it's my new (sadly unbound) 1886 Mode Illustrée. Sadly it has been hit right in the middle where the pages used to be folded and they now tear veeeery easily there - but overall it's in good shape. I lost the teens books I was bidding on. *pouts* Mode Illustrée books from after 1900 don't seem to pop up as often as the bustle era ones on eBay but, oh well, you can't win them all, right ?
Besides, I just ordered Queen Maud's Wardrobe for half the retail price, and the new What Clothes Reveal. And a whole stack of children books for Heimlich. Like a BIG pile. I blame the book we haven't been able to hide from him yet that his Grandma (guess which side...) gave him for Christmas : ugly images, text is dumb as a brick and full of typos. It's now hidden behind a lot of more interesting stuff, with the shiny (yeah, metallic shiny !) turned to the wall.
Justaucorps status : it needs the front buttons and half a buttonhole sewn over. The interfacing (white, as I didn't have anything in a dark color) showed through the machine-made buttonholes after I had opened them. I tried recovering them with the machine. Bad idea #1. Then I went for handsewing and buttonhole thread. Bad idea #2. I don't know whether it's the thread that's just bad or if it's a combination of thread and fabric thickness. So I had to make do with the same sewing thread I used with the machine and hand-sewing. It may sound like a cardinal sin but it works. Except for the part where I keep jamming the eye of the needle into the flesh of my thumb, because the wool + interfacing are pretty thick and tightly woven and the needle slips from the thimble. Right into my thumb. But I'm almost done, I even managed to make steady progress over the last couple of days despite Toad only sleeping for 20 minutes on one afternoon and her being übercranky for most of the day yesterday. (I guess she just used up both kids crankiness potential for a while because they've been adorable today)
I decided to take some rest this week, so the children will be with Nounou on all weekdays. January has just been exhausting, both physically and mentally, so I'm taking advantage of our wonderful and helpful sitter. And maybe I'll be able to work a little bit for myself, like on a set-up to take better pictures of my costumes, or even on some sewing if I get to finish my next commission quickly enough.
green_martha: (Default)
Toad slept through the night, a little over 12 hours straight last night, yay ! I can't tell you how relieved we both are. She's been having bad nights ever since she got out of the hospital, and last week was particularly rough. So rough the neighbors noticed. She woke up at the most irregular times, she was fine as long as one of us (or better yet : both of us) was holding her. Then she was smiling and playing. But sleeping ? Oh noes ! A few times we managed to lull her back to sleep after a bottle of milk, but sometimes there wasn't anything to do about it.
This means we were both really, really tired (oh yeah, because the HG has been sick as well, and completely drained from it and thus no help in the household for some days), so when I kinda crashed yesterdya evening, he told me to just do something that makes me feel good. So I went to eBay for some retail therapy of the costumer's kind. How long do you think it'll take for my new 1886 book to arrive ? :D I have my eye on some teens stuff as well. I blame you all for putting me in the mood for Titanic/Downton Abbey costumes ! I don't have time for this ! I have nowhere to wear it ! Tsk tsk tsk... :)
The justaucorps is hemmed, next are buttonholes, but ThePrincess is extremely loud and the kids are asleep. So I just *have* to start on the next thing on my list : 1890s !
My corset is still okay until I have a good chunk of time to make a new one, so I'll be starting on the rest of the undies. My current ones are a mish-mash of different periods and mostly in somewhat thick materials. I have better fabrics now, and I want a really pretty set of undies. I oviously need a few really good petticoats to get the right bell shape for the skirts, as well.
green_martha: (ravenclaw)
Funny how I just need to start writing a post that says "I can't find the right buttons" without finding them indeed. So that means I need to sew 18 buttonholes for the justaucorps, plus six decorative buttons, and that will leave me with six more spare buttons - possibly to be used on a matching waistcoat. That's a lot of buttonholes... I'll probably make them with ThePrincess, saving myself some handewign throught way too many thick layers, but still... Oy.
The hem is marked. I thought for a minute about hemming the thing tonight, looked a tmy watch, and decided it was a Bad Idea (tm) to do anything else than marking things at this time.
Now that I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel, I'm started to get all excited about my next project(s) !
I need to redo my wool surcot, th bottom needs to be wider for me to be able to actully walk and sit in it - as is, it's more a decoative costume than a functionnal everyday item of clothing. It should be the later.
I've had plans for months now to make myself some 14th century stuff (as in : fitted, supportive top, wide gored skirt). Not sure I'm excited enogh about it to actually make them. Plus, the red itchy patch above my left eye tells me I should stay away from wool for a while, and I'm pretty sure I don't have enough polar fleece (I need something *warm*).
So this leaves the option I'm the most excited about : 1890s !!!!!!!!! <= Yeah, THAT excited ! I'm not sure what I'll make exactly for the planned outing in the Spring. I still need to check I can do with my current victorian corset (or have to make a new one), but I should have most fabrics in stock (for the outer layer). Brown velveteen, tartan taffetas, some orange wool and/or silk. Yay ! Of course I want to go all over the top with this, but the more rationnal part of me tells me I might not have the time. We'll see, it depends a lot on whether or not I need a new corset... See ? all that babbling to say I just don't know yet hat I'll make Excited I tell you !
green_martha: (Default)
*yawn* I'm tired, not gonna stay up much longer. Today was devoted to family and home improvement (and sleeping in, yay !). We're getting a new projector so the Home Geek cut a shelf to size and I painted it something that should be brick red after I put the kids to bed. You never really know until all coats are on and dry if the color is going to be right. From what I've seen until now, we were aiming for something a little darker but the brighter tone will probably work anyway.
I suddenly remembered I had forgotten about the pockets in the justaucorps. They're still doable but 1) I don't want to do more fiddly bits than I already have done and 2) inserting them with the whole coat assembled will be a pain up somewhere. But what's a girl to do ? Pockets are needed. After I've put the staytape at the front opening that is, because I need to do that, too, and it's quicker, so I'll have the impression I've done more progress. Blech, this thing is killing all sewing motivation in me ! Anyway... left to do :
- staytape
- pockets (2 outer, 1 inner)
- front edges and closures
- hem
- buttons at the top of the pleats
- hand it over to the recipient. Whom I'll maybe see in six months or a year or God knows when... *sigh*
I can't find my pot of pins, which is particularly annoying as I really can't see where I might have hid it. Goblins. There must be goblins around here.

Slow sewing

Nov. 8th, 2011 04:32 pm
green_martha: (gps)
I'm taking a few minutes on a child-less afternoon to post before I head to the swimming-pool. Life is busy and quiet at the same time. Everything is comign along in tiny baby steps.
I'm still working on the justaucorps' lining, adding pieces bit by bit, by hand, which is not very conclusive to fast proress. I just have one sleeve left to do and then it's the dreaded closures, some hem tweaking, and hem. Judging from my current pace, it should take me two or three more months... *sigh* I intend to start workins on something else in parallel, a little 1890s thing for *meeeee* :D
I'd sew much faster if I didn't spend all that time reading books to the kids (does a two-year old ever get bored of having the same book read to him over and over ?), scratching the cats' ears (or calming an epiletci Murphy at night... :/ ), preparing the garden for the winter (my arms are till sore from cutting down the hedges and shovelling the dead leaves) and doing prep-work for the etching studio. Among other things.
plaque pour eau-forte plaque pour eau-forte
I'm trying to blog regularly but the results mainly show up on my french sites, because the costuming content is just a little bare these days. But I have great plans for the coming year - even though I don't plan to go to a lot of big events. I'm a but in a hermit mode right now and tend to go friends-only in real-life :)
green_martha: (Default)
Yeah, I've been bad at updating lately. I know, I know... The kids are keeping me kinda busy, particularly last week when the home geek was abroad (because people at his job can't plan work properly and had to send him to England to fix things he said would need to be fixed weeks before, gaaaaah !).

I'm still behind on the rococo event pictures, but I can alredy show you the finished Directoire outfit.

Yup, it's comfy. So comfy in fact that I have plans to duplicate the bodiced skirt as a woollen jumper dress for the winter. I ended up wearing it over my chemise and regular rococo petticoat. More pictures by clicking the images, here and at Heileen's.

I'm not inspired by the justaucorps. It's not playing along nicely, there are some semi-wrinkly places that I don't know how to fix so I'm just ignoring it right now.

I have finished a plain boring t-shirt for my Mom, nothing really fancy, but that means one commission out of the way - I know she wants some more stuff, we'll see to that when I visit my parents in two weeks, I hope I'll be able to fund some fabric with that.

I don't have any specific historical projects in mind yet - I do have some longterm goals but I give myself some time to think about it, plan them and all that jazz. Right now I'm focusing on modern sewing as 1) I need to make some sample stuff to put in my portfolio on my site and 2) I started the Great Winter Wardrobe Overhaul. Starting with remaking the green cape I made like ten years ago. You don't even want to know how I made that, eeeek !
2011-09-27
Muuuuch better now. I hacked off the center font edges and the top part, put lots of darts at the top to make it fit over my shoulders, redid the hand slits (still need to resew those closed). I want to shorten and reham it, put in a new collar band and make the hood smaller. I'll probably quilt some of the front part as weel, just for fun.
green_martha: (pirates !)

He didn't tip over while I was pinning the pleats and the sleeves in !

I pinned one sleeve in, wanted to check the width and the angle, and it does look good ! I'm so excited to see it look more and more like a real garment, after so many months as separate pieces... I'm off again to take it down from Nick, and try and conquer Sleevil.
I'm a bit frustrated I can't really show you how it looks together, but the background is ugly and the sun way too direct for good pictures. I'm anxiously waiting to see if I get the folding screen I'm bidding on eBay, it would finally solve my background issues - and it would look all pretty in our workroom. Crossing fingers no one but me wants to go pick it up (it's right next door for me !)

Staying !

Mar. 24th, 2011 03:08 pm
green_martha: (pirates !)
I have set up a placeholder blog for commenting on Blogger without going through the hassle of LJ-identification in comments (never worked for me). I have this place to blog, an similar blog in French, a website, that's enough to maintain. I'll try to keep up with you all - it seems lile most of you will keep an online presence here anyway, so that shouldn't be too hard.

This is what I'm working on right now. Scanning and scanning images. I'm no longer putting them up on FlickR as the website gallery is now up and running. I'm almost done with the half-year 1896 book I bought recently. After that, I'll go back through my galleries for texts and titles. Not looking forward to that !
I'm going to take a break from the PC, though, and go down sew some sleeves for this justeaucorps. I just need to finish it... someday ! I'd be much more motivated if I had some sort of deadline in the form of a fitting appointment. I need this to fit, and I need to discuss things like cuffs and trimmings !

Oh, and did you notice how awfully out of proportions her arms are ? Eeeeeek !

Edited to add : I have tried gathering all your blogspot IDs, but I'm not sure I didn't forget some, sofeel free to drop your link in the comments !
green_martha: (Default)
Yup, finally brought the camera upstairs and uploaded the latest Batch. I'm even sorta caught up with the 365 project Sorta because I went back to fill a few gaps. I was so proud I hadn't missed a day, but then we had friends over, with two kids running around, then various sicknesses, and I forgot to take some pictures. Oopsie.


First, the quilted petticoat ! clicky ! )


I took a break from the mega-quilting project and went back to my other crazy thing, the piratey justeaucorps for lil' brother. I'm proud to say I handbasted all the interlining pieces to the outer fabric. I need to give all of them a good steaming, then it's into the assembly line and after that... waiting for a fitting. I've started this project quite some time ago and I don't want to mess with the fit because I forgot something or he changed shape ever so slightly. I have NO opportunity to ever get more fabric if I screw up.
I still have more work ahead on this, like, waistcoats. At least two more waistcoats.

And did you notice ? Some pictures are hosted on the new website now ! Yay ! The downside is I haven't sewn a stitch today, but I'm uploading the bulk of my fashion pictures currently. The other downside, however, is that I realized I pretty much have to retake pictures of most of my costumes. They just look so... ugh, amateur ? And I just don't even HAVE pictures of about half of them, how did that ever happen ?
There's also a lot of work on the graphics still. Straightening lines, maybe some coloring... all boring stuff that has me very uninspired, unfortunately...
green_martha: (plates)
Because I'm too lazy to get up and take pictures of my new skirt (I'll do that while the kid sleeps this afternoon, I promise !), I give you a Friday Five )

As I said, new (pregnancy) skirt is done, and comfy. I made the hem per hand so that it doesn't leave a mark and I can redo the skirt post-pregnancy. Pretty grey velvet with colored roses, me likes. This bring my project count to 12-3 so far, yay !
I also finished basting the back and front pieces of the justeaucorps, have to cut out the sleeves now and baste it all together... and hope someday this year or next year I can have a fitting with my brother because I'm not putting that together without one last fitting, dammit !
I also finally got matching thread and quilting pins for the quilted ensemble, so once I have drawn out the pattern I'm good to go. That should happen today.
And I'm waiting and waiting for my packages to come. The 1912 book was supposed to be here on wednesday, the website says they came when no one was home (which I kinda doubt), then it said it would be delivered the next day, aka yesterday, but nothing came. Now it says it should be delivered shortly. I'm wondering if that means it'll finally come today... In the meantime, I'm scanning my way through the 1898 book - as we're planning a 1898 set LARP someday, it seemed logical to go through this one first. Plus, it's my all time favorite year. And I have this plaid taffetas that would be *awesome* for an 1898 dress... If I don't get distracted by some soutache stuff...

1898-02-06

Oh, let's not forget the handy link to the pictures !
green_martha: (Default)
I've been feeling a bit under the weather lately - I suspect I was really, really tired and needed the vacation. Now I have regained some energy and I give you the obligatory "yearly costume review" post.

Back in January 2010, I tried to push myself to finish one project a month for a year. It worked quite well for the first half of the year, then as I went back to work my productivity went downward and I stoped keeping track. Most of all, this year has been bad for pictures - I forgot to snap some of half of the things I made, and I still haven't gone through the Vaux one. Boooo ! I'll try to catch up now that I'm home, but first, what did I make ?click )

That'd be 10 or 11 projects in a year. Not quite 12-12, but considering I had a baby on my hands and how exhausted I spent the last months of the year, that's really not bad.
Oh wait ! I made a 12th thing ! I made a maternity t-shirt with th serger, it was so quick I forgot it ! *ticks the last box off*

Now for the coming year, what do I want to make ?
- finish the 1887 red maternity bustle dress
- make an 18th century quilted maternity ensemble
- make an adorable baby
- work on the super sekrit eyebrow project with [livejournal.com profile] heileen
Nothing else is set yet, but I suspect this will change after we have the programm of the Ministère des Modes in January...

Now for the mundane stuff click )
green_martha: (Default)
Sans pictures, because I suck like that lately. I've been sick, Heimlich's been sick, the Home Geek's been sick, we're all sick of getting sick in turns. Said sickness also attacked Lady Fi and her husband, and tried to contaminate
green_martha: (awesome)
I finished basting one half back of my brother's justeaucorps ! Just three more pieces to go, plus sleeves ! *mad laughter*
green_martha: (pirates !)
No. Kidding.

Let's blog like I know what I'm doing here... From left to right : one side with interfacing and padding, one without ; the padding on the inside of the chest ; the interfacing laid over inside the jacket front ; basting lines.
I'm learning as I go, and doing a mix of 18th century and modern stuff. So far it's been... interesting. I can foresee getting tired of the handstitching before the end - that's why I have multiple hobbies, right ? I don't really have COSTUMING Attention Deficit Disorder, I only have two sewing projects in the works (one of those I pulled aside because I didn't get it done in time for a deadline), I just have CREATIVE ADD.
*goes back to miles and miles of basting stitches*
green_martha: (pirates !)
... the more I'm convinced I need more interlining in the justeaucorps. The wool is stretchy and the skirts are incredibly heavy. Now of course I've already cut and assembled interlining for the skirt portion only. Should I patch some above ? Use a lighter interlining (like organdi) ? *rambles* Any advice is welcome !

Arrrrh !

Jun. 7th, 2009 05:25 pm
green_martha: (pirates !)
I finished the pirate shirts ! They're currently drying after I rinsed the soap marks out. For some reason (I swear I went back to the measurements I had noted down), the shirts turned out way shorter than the first one. The first one, ont he other hand, was reaaaaaally long.


First step : choosing which buttons to use... I went for the dark bronze, plain military style ones. I know I have enough of those for the matching waistcoat and justeaucorps. Nick was nice enough during the photoshoot, he neither collapsed nor tilted so far to the side that you'd mistake him for a hunchback. That's not common for him, so please say with me : Good job Nick !




See ? We don't have printed labels yet, so I made some myself ! *is proud*

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