green_martha: (plates)
I've been going through my books for my 1890s research... project... thingie. All in the name of going back to basics and looking for what's really typical in terms of shape and trim for 1890s lingerie. Turns out colored lingerie seems to be all the rage. I can't find a single fashion column between 1893 and 1898 that would mention lingerie and NOT mention color. Pale pink, pale blue, and pale pink, blue or purple flowers on a white ground. I need to look into what the patterns might have looked like now.
I'm enjoying some free time as the kids are with my parents and I'm home alone. I "only" have to make about 10 pounds of plum jam this afternoon. The plum tree is full of ripe fruit. We've have various cakes already. Tonight I'm going to try duck with a plum sauce, and this afternoon jam. And most of the fruit is still ON the tree. I've picked over 30 pounds of plums already. Does anybody want some ?


Feb. 13th, 2012 07:46 pm
green_martha: (plates)
So the good news is : I've sewn some ! I thought the 1893 blouse from Ageless Patterns I had lying around was a good starting point and it was. It worked even better once I figured out the seam allowances were included in the pattern. Tried it on, adjusted the fit and I can now proceed to cutting out the lining. I also realised I could use it as a base for my corset cover as well. I'm glad I started from scratch again, I think this pattern block fits me slightly better than the previous one I was using - which would have needes adjusting anyway, as my body has changed some after two pregnancies.
While I made progress on the outerwear, I'm afraid more work will be necessary in the underwear department. My antediluvian corset is coming apart. The hook-and-eye tape I used instead of a busk in front is coming undone. I kinda fixed it, ghetto-style, but I doubt it'll last very long. So the 1890s corset I had planned has turned from a "oh, I'd like that one day" into an emergency. *sigh*
I tried the Erris pregnancy corset on, and the lacing on the sides just flatten my hips. And it has spiral steel rubbing against my ribs down the front, so I'm not planning on using this one again.
green_martha: (nana)
And it feels weird that I'm turnign into a researcher, me, the "OMG it's prettiz I wants its "-girl. I'm looking through my magazines collection, compiling tartan occurrences and looking at silk vs. plain petticoats and at how to get the correct fullness at the bottom. Mighty ruffles of Doom ! Lots and lots of ruffles on top of ruffles on top of flounces on top of... You get the picture.

First, I need to make myself some actual clothes to wear for Easter-shmeaster-when-do-we-do-this-Heileen-? I'm looking for plaid blouses, because I have four meters of plaid taffetas, and this photograph has made me want to make an 1890s plaid blouse for years.
Now the questions :
- which year do I choose ? I have a soft spot for some 1895-96 designs, but tartan really does seem typical of 1897-98. The sleeves would be a little more work, as I haven't yet found patterns or diagrams for those, but I could go a little more crazy on the trim. And I have a bazillion skirt patterns/cutting diagrams at hand.
- OMG I have to choose a fabric ! The blouse itself is settled. I have some silk remnants from my wedding dress that coordinate quite well and would make nice accents. I'm leaning towards some wool or the like for the skirt.
Option one would be the same short plush I used for my 1885 dolman. I then have different shades of wool* twills that might work, one more reddish brown, one a lighter brown. It also suddenly occurred to me there's a hint of light blue-grey in the plaid, and I have the world's prettiest lightweight blue wool*, but alas, only 2 meters. I doubt I can wing an entire bell skirt out of that.

The skirt won't get done for a while, though. First I will concentrate on the blouse and make the waistband of my existing 1898 skirt a smidge larger - I made the skirt before Heimlich, it's a little too tight now, not much, I don't expect to have to move the zipper**.
Then I'll need proper petticoats, because I'm ashamed of the ones I have, and after I've read a very complete description of a fashionable 1898 silk petticoat, I can't see a way to alter my existant ones to my satisfaction. Now if only I could find a nice, cheap taffetas with rosebuds or B&W stripes (it can be synthetic, as long as it's not screaming "Polyester !" too loudly, but it has to be cheap). And lace. I need yards and yards of lace.
Then probably the rest of the underwear : chemise, drawers, corset cover.

And only after that am I allowed to make plans for the next ensemble... but the dark turquoise wool is talking to me in my sleep :p

*all wools courtesy of my grandmother's hidden mighty wool stash of doom that we found while emptying the house. It filled about 1/4th of her wardrobe, and she didn't even sew !
**Yes, it has a zipper, I wear it in everyday life, so it got everyday conveniences.
green_martha: (duckie)
... you make me want to wrap myself in ham and dance around in the moonlight.

You are making me CRAZY !
I want to see 1890s petticoats, so I suspect those would show up in a 1800-1900, Textiles, "Petticoat" search. No 1902 négligé. No 1998 Dior dress. No fishermen photograph. No 1750 court dress. PETTICOATS, I just want to look at those damn petticoats ! *sobs*
Also, what tells you the bottom of this piece was "meant to be seen" ? Cause it's pretty ? I have a lot of pretty lingerie, I had a lot of pretty lingerie before I even met my husband. I don't go around naked in it. 66cm is pretty short for a petticoat that's supposed to be seen in 1903. Also, considering half of your petticoats from the period are either colored or even patterned, I wouldn't say color is "unusual" for the late 19th century... It's also nice that the "petticoat, linen" search turns up a few cotton ones that didn't show up in the "petticoat, cotton" search. No linen petties in sight, though...

So yeah, I can't sleep and I've started researching 1890s undies.

Laziness !

Jul. 24th, 2010 11:07 pm
green_martha: (Default)
I am not tansfering the 1872  fluffed monstruosity petticoat pictures to my website and using the Flickr I uploaded them to. Shame on me !
1872 undies 1872 undies
Thank you [ profile] heileen for the invitation, the playing-with-the-baby, the background, the pictures, the ass-kicking and EVERYTHING !
As you might notice from the pictures I'm wearing an un-period tank-top and I badly need a new corset. It was laced a little too tight at the top as well, but it's more and more obvious that it's just too short in the bust. Luckily for me, I have the possibility to get an amazing pattern which might fit me with very little tweaking when I get around to renewing my set of victorian undies.
This beast swallowed around 6 meters of fabric just for the ruffles. It's not 100% done yet, I need to add a button and a loop to close it and possibly make the waistband a little smaller, it's a little too big and the front is somewhat wonly as a result.

And a little bustle shake "pour la route"
1872 undies
green_martha: (duckie)
... and also to some extent to prove to the world that yes, I AM crazy.

After completing the monster 1872 bustle from period instructions, I went on to the patching petticoat. Which calls for ruffles, LOADS of ruffles at the back. 4554 centimeters of them. Eeeeeep !
green_martha: (Default)
The stiff-ey poly-cotton blend is not longer stiff after washing.
I only pre-washed one of my two pieces before cutting out the petticoat.
The petticoat is going to be super pretty anyway, I'm really happy I used this very light fabric !
The fabric reacts really well to starching. Spray-starch is Good(tm).
I do indeed have some linen left over, but it's wouldn't be as fluffy.
I really, really need to re-organize my fabric stash.
La Mode Illustrée bound books get sold for a steal on french eBay these days.
green_martha: (duckie)
I keep forgetting I need a PETTICOAT over my Big Big Bustle. No petticoat I have will fit over THAT.
I can't remember whether or not I have enough white linen for it. Because if I have, it's in the kid's room. And the kid's finally asleep, after refusing to sleep this morning and sleeping just one hour this afternoon.
I could sacrifice part or all of my stiff-ey cotton-poly-mix, but I(m not sure how it would behave under another mostly cotton fabric.
I guess there's no way I can avoid the bodice, then...
green_martha: (nana)
Still in the process of figuring out how to make my 1872 bustle instructions work. There are of course mistakes and gaps the size of Texas in it, but I think I have it. Mostly.
Exhibit one : sewing the boning channels and preparing the gathers.

Exhibit two : a purple mess.

Exhibit three : Heimlich gives his enlightened opinion on a trial version with only 5 bones.

Exhibit four : it looks a little better if it sits lower, right ?

The instructions tell me to attach it to a petticoat. I think I'll but front and side panels, and will do a split back panel that ties or laces closed, because there's no way the bustle will hold its shape without something tying it together behind my legs (it has just two ties in the pictures). And I obviously need to add a shaped yoke above the bustle as well, but I saw that coming.
Little Heimlich seems VERY interested by the bustle, I must say. Much more than by say, the cat, or even myself sometimes.
green_martha: (nana)
... that's easier when I can locate the digicam.
Not that there's much to report, or to show. Except that a 4m40 long piece of cotton organdi is pretty damn long. Especially when you screw up and have to recut it. At least I had enough fabric left over to cut it right the second time, and I was able to salvage the inner layer of the bustle from the cutting mishap.
Right now I have both the outer layer and the inner layer assembled, and am in the process of marking gathering lines and pinning boning channels to the outer layer. And I am, as was predictable, out of grosgrain ribbon. I will order some more, but I'll first mark all lines on the bustle and cut out the steel, because I fear I won't have enough steel either. So I'd as well order both together. That is, once I find where I got the steel and ribbon from. It's been quite a few years since I bought them, and I can't find them again. Annoying.
Hmmm... can't find the ribbon again, but I did locate the steel. And caps for it. I'm definitely buying the caps this time, electrical tape was too much of a pain to work with last time.
green_martha: (Default)
1) It's still hot out there. Not as hot as the previous days, but still hot enough to make me all sweaty and stinky just from walking to the bakery.

2) How on Earth am I going to correctly measure and cut straight a piece of fabric over 3 meters long ? And the pattern had better work. And BTW, I do hope I have enough cotton organdi to cut said piece out of.

3) I wondered why the bakery was so full tonight at 7PM. Until I remembered the Ramadan just started. Lots of people out in the evening, and even more people getting yummy highly caloric, honey-fried pastries. I did refrain. For today. I did not buy the cookies with the blue glitter on them. It was hard not to.

4) What are we eating tonight ?
green_martha: (nana)
... to see the fabric of DOOM (doom doom...) I made the pocket hoops out of.

Mwahahah !
I plan on starting the petticoat/skirt muslin today. And I need to start thinking about recovering the shoes I bought. The heel is not perfect but the point is okay enough for me, and they are comfortable, which is important. And stable, which is even more important for my wobbly ankles.

But first, I'll finish ripping out that old wallpaper.

Steel fail

Jul. 9th, 2009 11:55 am
green_martha: (duckie)
I managed, after hours of wrangling with it and electrical duct tape, to cut and insert one piece of steel boning into a pocket hoop. And the remain of the steel coil fell off the balcony.

Before I show you any pictures, ye be warned : the checked bustle showed a great sens of aesthetics in coparison to the fabric I'm making these out of. Visual hazard ! Beware !
green_martha: (nana)
So they are done ! The pattern is from Jill Salen's "Corsets" book, don't remember the exact page but it's one of the projects near the end. White linen jumps in their original form, I made those out of one layer of jean and one layer of upholstery fabric, lined with fine linen and covered with an outer shell of silk.

The scaling was easy peasy. The jumps turned out a little big at the center back, so I had to cut them open and take some fabric away there. The seam replaced the center piece of boning. I went with a piece of diagonal boning on the two fronts, and I love how it looks and feels. The jumps are really comfy to wear, they only have two really minor issues. The center front boning could be half a centimeter shorter (not go right to the end of the tab), and the upper edge is a little wide on the right side - my bad, for not taking into account how not symetrical I am sometimes. Seems that both of my breasts did not react exactly the same to pregnancy.
On the whole, this was an easy and quick project, and one I love.
And it seems the sewing gods are on my side, as my casaque pattern came today in the mail. I'll start by making some pocket hoops though.
green_martha: (duckie)
Today I spent the day at the Darkstones' place, escaping the heat for a while. It was good... Spent the day chatting away, drawing, and pinning on the rest of the binding to the jumps. Left at six, got trapped in the traffic jam, arrived home exhausted... and realized I had forgotten the jumps and the sewing stuff up there. Blaaaaaaah !
Luckily I have a second pair of fabric scissors, and I can work on the pocket hoops or other small stuff until the next time I drive up there. But still, I feel pretty dumb.
green_martha: (Default)
Two words : binding tabs.
I keep sticking pins into my fingertips... awww !
Pictures to prove that I am working on the jumps. The first one shows how I managed to squeeze the lining pieces out of a tiny scrap of linen. Not that bad, heh ?

The other reason my hands hate me is the power tools. We're slowly renovating the future baby's room, and started with the ceiling. The previous owners had recovered the lovely wood paneling with some ugly sticky mess of an acrylic varnish-something that never really dried, or something like that. So sticky that we couldn't sand it off and have to scrape it off with plaster knives. Lovely. And *then* we can sand off the varnish that was under that sticky dark brown coat. We won't get a perfectly clean, brand new ceiling but a much, much lighter one with a sort of rustic feel. This room will finally stop lookign gloomy starting at 5PM !
The before pics :

The more specific ceiling before pic :

And the ceiling in progress :

All pictures taken around 10AM on sunny days.
green_martha: (nana)
I even uploaded them onto the computer. Except they're crappy mirror pictures, so crappy that all of them are so dark and blurry you can't see *anything*. Okay, that's a lie. One of them is sharp. A back picture. But you can only see about one third of my back...
I promise, I'll try to take better pics by daylight.
The state of things right now is that I'm inserting boning into the jumps. I'm making the 1790 white linen jumps in Jill Salen's Corsets (thanks Gloria for reminding me there were some in there !) and so far, things are looking good. Looks like they'll give me support in the right places without compressing the belly and will be pretty comfy. I'm debating about putting some boning into the front diagonal channel or not. Salen herself is unsure, will have to check the fit.
And then, I still have no idea what to choose for the fabric. I'm a bit bummed about using my remaining silk for that. Not that I don't like the color or else but I'm not that thrilled about making two costumes in a row with the same fabric. Aaaaand I'll wear this in August, it might be hot, and thus I'd like something more washable in case I sweat myself to death...

Edith sayz : the jumps are a tad too big. And I'm still undecisive about what to wear over them. Must find a way to fiw them first, though.
green_martha: (duckie)
The HG put up the new lampshade on the overhead light fixture in the now sewing room/future baby's room this morning. I swear, it's not the same room ! The antique nautic fixture we had didn't give half as much light... Now I can work on my jumps until the wee hours of the morning !
See ? Sewing news ! I actually started a new project ! I'm feeling strangely unmotivated about it though, probably because I haven't picked a fabric for the outfit that's to go over it yet. Probably because I haven't completed a totally fun, gratuitous historical something in much too long (not counting the wedding dress, that was a necessity). Probably because I miss some costuming fun... Probably also because I feel kinda crappy since yesterday, my heart rate is going nuts again like at the very beginning of my pregnancy. I guess they'll up the betablockers' dosis quite a bit tomorrow... *sigh* I'll be a good girl and will avoid too much exercise until then. No transfering the costume libraby into the linving room. I want to stay fit until August for our little rococo get-together ! :)
green_martha: (Default)
Obviously quite a while... I'm not very active lately...
BUT I'm slowly going back to sewing ! I tried on the bodiced petticoat and wedding dress and it still fits - the dress is a little tight in the bust, no big surprise here, but other than that it's still fine. Not tht I'll wear it again soon, actually...
Then I dug out some fabric from the stash, discovered I had lightweight, summery fabrics in quite improbable prints (multicolored polkadots, mad 70s grandma flowers...) with coordinating thick jersey. With some creative patterning and piecing I should be able to eek three pregnancy skirts out of it. Most people would probably find the patterns downright hideous but my twisted mind rather likes them, and the Home Geek thought they were fine. And they come right from my Grandma's stash - and yes, I clearle remember her wearing one of them.
But right now, I've started muslining an empire dress. Took a bit of Janet Arnold, a bit of Jean Hunnisett, a bit of draping while watching a no-brainer movie with the Darkstones. The first bodice mock-up ended up a bit too short - old story here. I'm big, but it seems all the addtionnal length I have compared to normal people is located between my breasts and shoulders. I had to add one inch and a half to the bodiced petticoat straps and that was *after* I had already made them longer than what the pattern called for. By about an inch.
Okay, back to business. I'm going to put some Top Chef on the player and pin away.

BTW, the mystery of the unclaimed gloves in the sewing room has been solved. There were from my Grandma, and my Mom brought them for the wedding and remembered to leave them here for me, only she forgot she'd done so and forgot to tell me. [ profile] mady_darkstone, the black pair is yours to grab !
green_martha: (nana)
I just tried on the improved bodice petticoat and it seems taking apart the straps at the front seam and joining them with ribbon to the corselet front did the trick. I'll have to try it on over a longer period of time on Wednesday, and check whether the wedding dress still fits over that, but no immediate shoulder pain was felt. Yay !


green_martha: (Default)

October 2012



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