green_martha: (awesome)
First, thank you all for your kind words on this project. Working on it has been insane but it's been an incredible confidence boost to have it DONE ! I'm still feeling kinda high from it... :)
I kidnapped Lady Darkstone to take some (*cough* 150 *cough*) pictures of the quilted outfit worn before I'm no longer pregnant.

The complete outfit, including the waistcoat :
Complete outfit, front Complete outfit, back

Better view of the waistcoat :
Petticoat and waistcoat, side Petticoat and waistcoat, back
We're in a bit of sag-land as far as breasts are concerned, and I'm frankly not a big fan of wearing both the waistcoat and the caraco. I felt somewhat... trapped in my clothes. It wasn't too hot today, but definitely still too warm for such an outfit. I suppose one could wear the waistcoat and petticoat only, with some kind of house robe or bedgown over it for staying inside the house, though.

Without the waistcoat, but with fichu and apron to fill the gap in front of the caraco (and optional little pirate photobombing):
Caraco and apron, front Caraco and apron, side

I am, to be honest, incredibly proud to have completed this, including most accessories (I still want to make a pinball stuffed with all the thread ends I collected), and to have it done in time. It's good to realize you've made progress in your sewing :)
(No, I'm not taking off my glasses, Jas Townsend sells the exact same ones as 18th century replicas :p )
green_martha: (awesome)
Sorry there's goign to be a lot of capslock going on. And some of you might have seen it somewhere else already but...

it's DONE !

The waistcoat is DONE !
Which means the quilted outfit is DONE ! Entiruely, completely, just-missing-one-ribbon-on-the-cap-unless-I-have-to-upinck-it-all DONE ! DONEDONEDONE as in DONE !
I feel like I'm slightly drunk or something. It's soooo weird to have been working on something for sooo long and to have it finally done, in time, to suddenly NOT have the looming deadline anymore.

Please excuse me while I run around shouting my joy. WaaaAAAAaaAAAAAAaaAAAh !!!!!!!!!

...

OMG...

...

... what should I sew next ?
green_martha: (duckie)
... by which I mean yet another needle. So far I've broken four machine needles and three hand needles on the quilted outfit. The hand needles kinda baffle me, but then I've switched to newer, thinner and longer needles lately, they tend to bend after a few days, and snap after some more hard work. Tonight I decided the needle breaking plus me being unable to rethread the machine in less than three seconds meants I needed a break from sewing and some sleep.
You see, I'm trying my hardest to get this finished before the birth. And to get pictures, of course. Pictures need to happen before the In-Laws come, and besides, the Home Geek is truly and utterly incapable of taking good pictures. If I tell him to point and shoot at THIS detail he might get it. But managing something visually pleasing... no way. So I need to have this done when the Darkstones come, on Wednesday. I'm kinda crushed for time.
The back is quilted and sewn together, I have about one third of the eyelets done. One of the front pieces is quilted, the other I'm about halfway through. I have prepared two strips of fabric for fringe I need to make. I think it's doable, if Heimlich lets me. He's been a little bit jealous when I try to sit at the machine lately. Handsewing on the couch is mostly okay, though, and noise doesn't bother him during his nap. I think I can maybe possibly tentatively get it done on time.
green_martha: (duckie)
The stream of sewingness does go to FB, but here's a pic : finished petticoat and caraco AND apron.
Apron
Left to make are the new *white* fichu (I have two, both cream-colored), the cap and the waitscoat.
green_martha: (awesome)
I can haz a quilted petticoat !
Mwahahah !
I haz it !
*does a little victory dance*

Tried it on over the baby bum. It's cute ! (but then, maybe it's just in my head that baby bum + rococo petticoat = cute, this has happened before...)

I'm happy !
I have a petticoat !
A quilted petticoat !
A FINISHED quilted petticoat ! (oh wait, I still need to cut of four threads...)
green_martha: (duckie)
I'm starting to enjoy picking out warp threads to make fringe. Mwahahah !!!

For some reason, I was completely stressed out over attaching the peplum to the jacket yesterday, I turned the pieces in all directiosn and couldn't find a way to make it right. Today, I picked it up, gathered the remaining section of the peplum, pinne dit into position, sewed it. Done !
Yup, it seemed odd to me to, but it does seem like the original is gathered, if not cartridge-pleated. With the thickness of the quilted fabric, it gives quite a bit of oomph to the backside...
Quilted jacket Quilted jacket 2011-05-09
It hangs weirdly on the dummy, and I can't really try it on yet, without eyelets and without the waistcoat to go under it.

And this hasn't got anything to do with the quilted outfit, it's just stunningly beautiful...
green_martha: (Default)
Well I'm glad I have this space !
I neglected posting pictures of my sewing progress for some days, so here they are now. Yup, it's quite a bunch.


Assembling the second side of the quilted petticoat was... adventurous.


Then I hand-hemmed the petticoat. Why is it so often easier to do so much by hand ?

For the peplum, I was afraid the battign I have would add too much bulk, so I divided in two layers.

And then I used the thinner layer for the top half of the peplum, and the thicker one for the bottom half. Because I just happend to have a strip of batting laying around and I'm all about economy of materials.


The quilting design was traced directly onto one half of the peplum lining, and then transfered to the other half. You can see how far I came today with the quilting : vines and flowers are done, diamonds are started.


The self-fabric trim. I cut a strip of fabric, folded it in half lenghtwise, and pulled the warp threads of one half of it. One by one, mostly. Then the trim was pleated to the neckline, sewn to the inside of the quilted shell with long, rough stitches, and the lining is getting handsewn over it. As I said, it's often way easier to handsew everything... and prettier.
green_martha: (Default)
The week-end was seriously good, exhausting, but wonderful. Seeing so many friends again. Relaxing in the sun. Lounging by the pool (and splashing into it, actually).
I did not get as much sewing done as I could have (quite unsurprisingly), but both sleeves are in, with the insides neatly finished. I made three strips of fringed trim and added some to one half of the neckline already. I patterned and cut out the peplum, traced the quilting desing onto it, quilted the flowers and vines and started the diamond pattern. So basically, the jacket is comign along nicely. I have to finish the neckline, the front opening (eyelets...), the sleeves opening (including making buttons), the quilting on the peplum, add trim to said peplum and put it together with the rest of the jacket. That's still quite a lot of work, and a good bit ot handsewing. I'm taking pictures at every step, but posting them with the little one around isn't that easy. And I used his nap today to finish the design for Toadette's birth announcement rather than updating the website.
Lookign at the clock, I should get down and get make us something to eat tonight... The cupboards and fridge are a bit empty, it's going to take some imagination to come up with something else than pasta...

Peaceful

Apr. 25th, 2011 03:18 pm
green_martha: (nerd baby)
My parents are gone. I do adore them, but with them getting old it's a little more work every time they come. I sewed squat during their time here - but I did get some fabrics. Fabrics for skirts my Mom commissionned me to make her, and as a payment I got a dark blue printed cotton for my Regency project, some modern stuff, and 12 meters of various white fabrics - light ones with varying degrees of sheerness. One I have earmarked for a new fichu, another for a 1920 combination.
I think I'm all set on making a 1920 outfit for the Ajecta/train ride event in September. I have a fabric I love which seems to be pretty period. I have, if I deem it necessary to achieve the line, the right bra-thing. It'd be quicl to make and I have at least two dresses in mind that I could make AND have the pattern for. Not couting the suits. A suit would be more appropriate as travelling garb, but also more work, and I'd have about one month and a small baby to make this. I still get to make a pretty silly hat, and I have shoes that would work.

2011-04-24
Now here's my latest trim idea for the quilted caraco. What do you think ? Pretty, Y/N ?
It's just a test strip, pinned on the neckline edge for a rough idea. I honestly can't decide. It'd be more work, but I like it. But then, I also like it without.

It's all quiet here, there's a an apple cake baking in the oven, the kid is asleep and I'm going to work on setting those sleeves in. I have way too much sleeve fabric for the armhole, and pleating it gives too much poof with such a stiff material...
2011-04-25
green_martha: (duckie)
Heileen came over but she's gone again now ! It was so good geeking over costumes all day, and seeing her parents again, though, and Heimlich had a fabulous time - though a "carrots are poisonous" one*.

I did get some quilting progress ! I finished assembling the body of the caraco (I did most of the work in the hospital waiting room yesterday, a mitigated "yay" to doctors being one hour and a half late) and tonight after she was gone I finished quilting over the panel joint. Yes, the two petticoat panels are now sewn together. I changed a few things from my original assembly plan. For the caraco, I ended up backstitching the outer shell together, and then adding the lining one piece after another, as everything else would have involved to much bulk. For the petticoat, I had to give up on machine-stitching the two panels together, it wasn't precise enough to allow me to match the quilted pattern repeats, so I used small running stitches both on the inside and outside (I meant to only do so on the inside - I know I'm not going 100% historically accurate on this, but time is an issue). Wrangling the fabric under the sewing foot was quite a challenge, as usual, I expect it to get worse for the other joint, as the fabric will form a tube by then...


*two weeks ago green beans were of the devil, and carrots came from Heaven. Today it was ALL about green beans. Kids...
green_martha: (Default)
Okay, you can skip the baby pics if you want, I'll just post this one :
IMG_4091
The rest is on my FlickR. The little pirate is starting to really strike a pose for the camera, it's kinda scary...

Did I say I started the caraco ? Oh yes, I probably did ! Here's the back as of tonight, quilted (small pieces are so fast to make !) and sewn together :


And this was the front before I finished the piece on the right :

Both pieces are now done. I've also cut out the lining pieces. I'm going with Janet Arnold for the construction - it makes senses, and it'll give me a nice finish without having to fight with the quilting too much. I'll sew the lining pieces to the center back seam, then assemble the whole lining, and put the outer pieces over that. I probably won't line the sleeves to reduce bulk, same goes for the peplum. I have to take a diabetes test tomorrow morning, which means Ineed to keep myself busy for two hours. I think handsewing will work.

I'll spare you the babble about all the projects I have going on in my head right now. I clearly have too much ambition for the time and energy I have at hand. But at least, making yoghurt isn't that time-consuming, and we all love it. I'll just have to stae, once mor,e that [livejournal.com profile] heileen, Lady Darkstone and my Mum all have a bad influence on me :p
green_martha: (Default)
Yup, finally brought the camera upstairs and uploaded the latest Batch. I'm even sorta caught up with the 365 project Sorta because I went back to fill a few gaps. I was so proud I hadn't missed a day, but then we had friends over, with two kids running around, then various sicknesses, and I forgot to take some pictures. Oopsie.


First, the quilted petticoat ! clicky ! )


I took a break from the mega-quilting project and went back to my other crazy thing, the piratey justeaucorps for lil' brother. I'm proud to say I handbasted all the interlining pieces to the outer fabric. I need to give all of them a good steaming, then it's into the assembly line and after that... waiting for a fitting. I've started this project quite some time ago and I don't want to mess with the fit because I forgot something or he changed shape ever so slightly. I have NO opportunity to ever get more fabric if I screw up.
I still have more work ahead on this, like, waistcoats. At least two more waistcoats.

And did you notice ? Some pictures are hosted on the new website now ! Yay ! The downside is I haven't sewn a stitch today, but I'm uploading the bulk of my fashion pictures currently. The other downside, however, is that I realized I pretty much have to retake pictures of most of my costumes. They just look so... ugh, amateur ? And I just don't even HAVE pictures of about half of them, how did that ever happen ?
There's also a lot of work on the graphics still. Straightening lines, maybe some coloring... all boring stuff that has me very uninspired, unfortunately...
green_martha: (Default)
I know, I should've updated... Rough days, I'm not really gonna go into that.
I have finished quilting the second petticoat panel ! No pictures yet, hopefully tomorrow. I won't assemble them right away. I want to prepare the pieces for the caraco and waistcoat first. Assembling is something I can do by hand while laying in bed, if I get sick again/have to get a lot more rest than now/whatever my body thinks is funny...
I also cut out the justeaucorps sleeves for my brother's outfit and have basted half the interlining to the fabric pieces. Just a little more handsewing to do, then basting it all together.... and waiting till we can arrange a fitting.
My plan for tomorrow's make-do sewing day - it got partially cancelled in the end - is to take the pattern of from my pierrot and start preparing the quilted caraco pieces. Work on the justeaucorps sleeves if I get to tired. And bake some cake.

Simplicity - trimmed, signed and numbered
I managed to put up some pictures of my latest prints, though. I'm starting to enjoy working with linoleum - I have given SpeedyCut a try but in the end I think I'll stick with lino, I strangely feel more at ease with it although it's clearly a lot harder to carve... I'm weird I guess, but the shipping rates for SpeedyCut really play in favor of lino as well. Anyway, those are linocut, and have been put up for grabs. I have quite a lot other projects on the back-burner, but right now I mostly need some rest. Stupid stomach bug hit me again :(

Un-progress

Mar. 9th, 2011 10:17 pm
green_martha: (nerd baby)
So I worked on the quilte dpetticoat... but mostly, I just unpicked and redid a few lines. The outer fabric has shifted somewhere way too far back and I'm fighting its desire to keep shifting. Lots of pinning, and there will be lots of little pleats where I'll need to unpick the quilting and sew it back, pulling and tugging at the fabric so that the pleat disappears. Oh well, I'll get it done in the end. And next time I'll start from the middle of the fabric again - starting form the side is great to keep the right angle from one panel to the next, but not so to prevent shifting.

Neat !

Mar. 3rd, 2011 06:40 pm
green_martha: (gps)
2011-03-02
My new tools arrived ! I think I could give linoleum another try without ruining my hands with this set, as they're *really* sharp. I'm glad I ordered a new set, my old one definitely wasn't up to par. My books also arrived, and now I keep wanting to make a front-pleated tea-gown as maternity wear... or just to lounge in at the hospital ^^ (please slap me before I start that !)
BTW, I'm doing the 365 thing again, and trying to keep up with that. All pictures are on the appropriate FlickR folder.

Quilted petticoat panel Quilted petticoat panel
And of course, you're all *dying* to see the progress on my quilted petticoat ! The first panel is as done as I can get it without connecting the two halves, and the second one has been started. As you can see, the pattern will continue from one pattern into another - if I don't screw things up, that is.

Now the bad news is under the cut, as it's mostly booo, pregnancy sucks !-whining )
green_martha: (duckie)
I finished the first spool of thread today. 500 meters, as is stated on the packaging.
02-spool

I'm now working on the left end of the panel, and I have to roll up what's on the right in order to fit in under the arm of the sewing machine.
02-rolled 02-rolled2
Practicality ? What's that ?

And finally, the status as of a few hours ago, when I finished the afore-mentionned spool :
02-pirate 02-flat
I stitched come more on it and I'm almost done. The unstitched areas over the waves are the places where I4ll adjust the design so that the transition works between the panels. I'll do that last, as it will be *very unhandy* at best to work with the two panels stitched together.
Goign downstairs again to work on it some more...
green_martha: (duckie)
Quilted petticoat panel
This is how it looks right now, after I finishe dthe second bobbin of thread. I'm about halfway through the first spool, I'd guess.
Moar picturz under ze cut )
It could clearly be better, especially if I had the time and energy and dedication to work per hand on a big hoop. But lacking said predispositions, I haven't found a way to manoeuver such a large device under the foot of my machine, so I try to keep the fabrics flat with my hands and many, many safety pins. This thing, I have to tell you, is killing me. I can't work much more than a few hours on it at a time because handling the fabric layers makes my arms ache.
green_martha: (bustlecat)
So I finished the flowers and vines on the petticoat panel last week and finally started on the diamonds today. I'm still not pleased with the way this is turning out, I think it's my own perfectionnism talking for a good part, and for a smaller part the machine quilting + thin fashion fabric combination. *grumbles* Anyway, I figured out I had to make the diamonds smaller than I did in the sample, since the flowers are also somewhat smaller. I needed the more intricate diamond pattern to make the other part of the design stand out. I short, this means I've sewn down 20 rows before taking a break for tonight, and I've only done a microscopic amount of the work... *sigh*

2011-02-222011-02-16
I've also been working on some new plates for the printmaking workshop, and I'm *so* impatient to get those proofed... Last week's workshop was a [censored] disaster, because no one had noticed the acid was way too old, so I ruined one (or two, not sure whether the second one is salvageable) plate(s). I'm still lackign some supplies to prepare plates for etching here, so I just played with some zinc remnants I got and drypoint. But now I'm just dying to see how those print ! This printmaking thing really is addictive...
green_martha: (awesome)
i finished the flowers and vines on the first panel of the skirt. I still have to cut the thread ends, and then figure out how dense I want the diamond pattern above them to be.
I was browsing the web for some quilted petticoat references, and was happily surprised to come accross this. You see, the intercrossing wave pattern I have chosen for the bottom of the petticoat I got from a mid-19th century quilted petticoat, so seeing a similar pattern on an 18th century one ? Awesome !

A few notes as I go :
- I'm working with one layer cotton lining, one layer polyester lining( not that there's much else available around here *rolls eyes*), one layer cotton-something satiny mix
- I pinned everything in place together using a LOT of quilting safety pins (I suppose they're called this way because you can buy them in bigger boxes than regular safety pins ? didn' tnotive any other difference)
- before pinning together, I transfered the desing to the lining by putting the lining fabric over the printed and drawn design and going over the lines in pencil. It doesn't rub off faster than I work, and it's barely visible once it's sewn. Plus, it's inside anyway.
- I'll make the skirt in two 1m40 wide panels. I'm working on each panel separately and plan to connect the design repats at the joint after the seaming is done. Should be fun. Especially since I tweaked the design so that it worked on my 1m50-wide lining only to discover afterwards my fashion fabric was only 1m40 wide.

Holy cow, working on this is taxing ! In some ways, it would be easier to do this by hand, but I don't have the time right now. Someday though, I *will* make myself a proper, handquilted one. I'd like to, at least. I'm struggling to yank the fabric layers back and forth under the presser foot. I can't use an embroidery hoop as it wouldn't feet under the machine foot, and the fabric wants to bunch up and make pleats over itself. My back and arms are sore from today's work !
And to top it off, I'm incredibly stressed aobut the outcome. Which is stupid, but this thing IS stressing me out. Damn you, perfectionnism !
If anyone is reading some french *and* is interested, I'm also rambling over there on my french blog. Pretty layout is still optional.
green_martha: (Default)
2011-02-15 2011-02-18
It looks better by daylight than it did yesterday after dark, I think I'm going to plug on.

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