green_martha: (awesome)
It's official, I'm not trying to finish the Directoire outfit for Saturday. I could not possibly get it to a stage I'd be happy with it. So... I tried on what's in my closet. In short : I need to alter the stirped pierrot, the redingote-dress, the casaque. I probably need a new pair of stays as well, as my waist now sits a good two inches higher than pre-Toadette. But the plum caraco, which was jsut a tad shortwaisted, now seems to fit fine ! I just had to cut of the sleeve above the elbows as they were too tight, but that's pretty much it. Bonus point, I now wear them over underwear from the same period (aka the plum jumps). I feel pretty good, looking at my first serious attempt at historical costuming and thinking it's still totally serviceable and nothing I should be shamed of - in fact, the sleeves are some of the best sleeves I ever constructec, dammit.
I still have a few things to do before Saturday :
- make two tiny stitches to hold the pants legs of the skeleton suit folded up inside (they're a bit too long, as I feared, but the jacket fits fine)
- find white socks for Heimlich
- find white narrow tape and sew it on - to close Toadette's frock
- hem and add lace to her shirt's neckline
- change the bows on my hat
- bake a cake
- buy some othe rcakes
- wrap the birthday girl's present
- repair cartridge pleats on muslin skirt
- iron everything
- DO NOT forget period correct glasses !!!!
I do have pictures, pictures of the kids (OMG this girl truly IS growing like a mushroom, she's bigger and heaier now than her brother was one month older !), pictures of Toadette in her almost finished outfit (no time for a cap, yet, and OMG again, she barely fits into it now !), pictures of the state of the blue directoire two-piece... but !i got a new computer. And this nifty brand new mini-PC only sees the first picture on my DSLR. So, no pictures. Here's hoping that the HG will fix it soon enough...
green_martha: (Default)
- attach skirt to waistband
- hem skirt - aka what I'll do next
- trim and finish sleeves' edges
- attach a ruffle to hide the jonction between skirt and bodice
- attach belt above said ruffle
- bind the neckline - almost done, I'm keeping the 12 remaining centimeters for the train

Possible accessories
- change the ribbon on the hat, possibly adapt the hat's shape to make it look less not-authentic
- pockets ! let me have pocket slits for a reason !!
- fichu
- trim shoes (I had forgotten about those)

Totally doable, isn't it ?

And NOW I wonder what the heck am I going to do with my hair ??? I think I'll wash it and braid them for the night, so  that I'll have some curls to play with a little bit..
green_martha: (Default)
(Am I turning into a wordl cup supporter ? uuuh)

The skirt now has a waistband and just needs to be levelled and hemmed. Or, if worse comes worse, just zogzagged, but I think I'll be able to do the hemming.

I love my machine, the little darling sewed right through the 7mm of cartridge pleated fabric without moaning or setting her timing off !
green_martha: (green)
Right now, I still need/ have to make :

- attach skirt to waistband
- hem skirt
- trim and finish sleeves' edges
- attach a ruffle to hide the jonction between skirt and bodice
- attach belt above said ruffle
- bind the neckline

Possible accessories
- change the ribbon on the hat, possibly adapt the hat's shape to make it look less not-authentic
- pockets ! let me have pocket slits for a reason !!
- fichu
- trim shoes (I had forgotten about those)

So I figured out my petticoat was too short to be used as a skirt, so I couldn't skip the skirt. And since most of the work on the bodice can be done by hand, I worked on what I can't bring along to work or sew on the train, aka the skirt. I cut it out, assembled it, cartridge pleated it (yep, although I said earlier I wasn't sure about it), cut out the waistband(s).
But now it's a bit late, I'll go up early tomorrow to finish the skirt before going to work.

I didn't do any laudry today, but I managed to do the grocery shopping and bake a cake :)

Addenda

Jun. 14th, 2006 10:11 am
green_martha: (Default)
I forgot to mention in my previous post I have a new sewing buddy, in the person of Buzz (whom I know I mentionned in this LJ like a year ago). Poor boy offered his help to organize our next LARP, and since I know he can sew, and I've got plenty of costumes to sew 'til september, he got to help yesterday evening.
Thus I noticed, not only are his semas much neater and straighter than mine with the machine, his work at scaling patterns is also much neater than mine. At least he didn't know til yesterday what a french seam is, so I'm not overly jealous ^^
He got some work done on Murder Costume #1, and scaled the pattern for a chemise for another costume, I'm not sure which one, since the persona for Murder Costume #2 could wear a combination rather than a chemise and drawers, andit would be fun to have a combination...

I've just been trying on my outfit, it's actually pretty cool here, and I'm hot. I'm going to melt on Sunday ! Let me not forget my fan !!!

BTW, [livejournal.com profile] heileen and [livejournal.com profile] de_ravenne, if either of you is in need of one, I have a rather large collection of them, they're not very period correct for the 18th century, but still better than nothing, so if you want me to bring one for you, let me know.
I'll be arriving at the Gare de Lyon at 10 and some minutes, and leaving from the same station at 20. And I have to go across the street today to get my tickets and a new 12-25 train card (probably my last one, btw... weird, huh ?)
green_martha: (Default)
Skirts
- a new bumroll - I have a distinctivly big a** now, alrighty.
- errr... the skirt itself. Not sure I'll have time to cartridge pleat it though..

Bodice
- roll hem left side of the center opening
- cut down the sleeves, trim them with a small ruffle, hem etc...
- gather and attach the front  - to be more precise : unpick the shoulder seam, take off the pleating at the shoulder, move the fullness to the front area, gather, trim down the excess fabric, attach the gathered fabric to the lining, re-stitch the shoulder seam and upper neckline
- flatline the belt, attach a ruffle to hide the jonction between skirt and bodice
- bind the neckline

Possible accessories
- change the ribbon on the hat, possibly adapt the hat's shape to make it look less not-authentic
- pockets ! let me have pocket slits for a reason !!
- fichu
green_martha: (Default)
What has been done and what still needs to be done
- roll hem left side of the center opening
- cut down the sleeves, trim them with a small ruffle, hem etc...
- gather and attach the front  - to be more precise : unpick the shoulder seam, take off the pleating at the shoulder, move the fullness to the front area, gather, trim down the excess fabric, attach the gathered fabric to the lining, re-stitch the shoulder seam and upper neckline
- flatline the belt, attach a ruffle to hide the jonction between skirt and bodice
- either bind the neckline or make a small ruffle for it

I managed to make some progress, although there's been more going backwards than coming forward...

Aha !

Jun. 12th, 2006 08:22 pm
green_martha: (weird)
I'm really frustrated about not going to Vaux, so I'm making a last attempt. I put a option on a train ticket, And I've just finished the petticoat. I may be mad, And I'll be a wreck at work on monday, but it only happens once a year, I've never met [livejournal.com profile] de_ravenne IRL and I haven't seen [livejournal.com profile] heileen for what seems like ages. Ok, it's not that I *may* be mad, I am completely and utterly insane.

Let's
see what needs to be done :
Skirts
- a new bumroll, because the one I made is completely wrong for 1795. Bummer. I need a BIG ASS, hips are not that important...
- errr... the skirt itself. Not sure I'll have time to cartridge pleat it though..

Bodice (the back issues are solved, I'm very proud of my bodice back I have to say)
- cut down the sleeves, trim them with a small ruffle, hem etc...
- gather and attach the front
- flatline the belt, attach a ruffle to hide the jonction between skirt and bodice
- either bind the neckline or make a small ruffle for it

Possible accessories
- change the ribbon on the hat, possibly adapt the hat's shape to make it look less not-authentic
- pockets ! let me have pocket slits for a reason !!
- fichu

It could almost sound doable... almost.
I'm mad.

And hungry. But let's sew first, dinner will wait.
green_martha: (Default)
Yep, I'm still working on Plummy. But verrry slowly. I granted myself a kind of break and have been spending a lot of time doing nothing, sleeping and watching Lost with thte Home Geek. Oh, and playing Supertux - Supertux *is* important, after all, isn't it ?

Let's see... The back of the bodice is finished, I'm in the process of gathering the front and attaching it to the lining, then I'll have to attach the belt - which I'll probably flatline with twill or organdi.

I've attached the front of the petticoat to the waist tape, I meant to do the same for the back on my lunchbreak, except I had forgotten said waisttape at home, how clever of me...

I've done a little of pinning on my murder costume, too, but so little it's hardly worth mentioning it. Well, but it just gives you the impression I've been almost productive...
green_martha: (Default)
I just showed Ep. 2 of Lost to the Home Geek - and he's moderately hooked. :)

Now on to the less good part. We have some issues at work, so my manager has to come to work tomorrow, although she should theoretically have the day off. Then on the 10th, I have the saturday off and will be in Pisa, visiting my ex with the Home Geek and a few other friends. It's my last occasion to visit him in Pisa, because he moves very soon, and I want to make the trip with everyone, so I want to keep this Saturday off. Which means my manager needs her saturday on the 17th, which means I don't get it off. So there's a big "?" again on the Vaux event.

Yet I've started attaching my petticoat to the waistband. Making slow but steady progress.
green_martha: (Default)
About Vaux : I got my saturday off !!! My manager really is a sweetheart ! ^^ So the plan is to take the Home Geek with me on Saturday, or even friday night, take the train to Paris, stay at his prents' place, see friends on Saturday, and let him do whatever he wants on Sunday, since he doesn't want to come to Vaux, and get back to Grenoble on Sunday evening, preferably before midnight.

About Plummy : I have the right length of pleated fabric for my petticoat back, I had originally cut it about è0cm too long. And I just took some time to backstitch through every second pleat, after my thread broke on two places after I had finished the pleating process. I need to buy more thread anyhow, which I'll do this afternoon.

Time to breakfast, he ?

Phew...

May. 29th, 2006 11:57 pm
green_martha: (green)
I've got a good part of my cartridge pleating done. Actually, it should be about trhee-quaters of the back. Except it seems the pleated fabric now goes nearly round my *whole* back. I'll try it on tomorrow, and will probably cut off about 50cm of fabric - which I then won't need to cartridge pleat, that's good news !). The front will be partly catridge pleated, partly pleated, it should be quicker to make. And if I'm very tight with my sewing, I can always use this as my skirt and keep the muslin skirt for later. Or just gather the skirt.
I'm much mor eoptimistic tonight, since the headache is gone, the petticoat is on its way and I was able to work on the caraco during my break. I hope tomorrow will be just as fine. And then I have wednesday off, yeepee !

PS : [livejournal.com profile] heileen and [livejournal.com profile] de_ravenne, I'll try to look at the trains chedule stomorrow, maybe we can try to take the train from Paris to Melun and forth together ? What d'you think ?
green_martha: (green)
You can find all my progress pictures of Plummy here. I really don't feel like putting all the pictures on my LJ now, and the Home Geek did a good job on making this storage folder into a usable gallery (isn't that sweet of him ? ^^). The 01 pictures show the lining (which wasn't as perfectly fitted as I thought, sigh...), the 02 the jacket before and while putting the sleeves on, and the 03 the current state (before fiwing the back gaping issue). The front part and the belt are just pinned on to get an idea of the look. And I'll revamp those sleeves pretty soon. Oh, the Liotard picture ? My original idea... as you see, the design has changed a lot since then ^^

About Vaux : all the info are on the castle's page, but here's a little sum-up. The best way to get there is from the Garde de Lyon, taking a train (or RER) to Melun, and then the "chataubus". The schedules for said bus are on the castle's site, too.
green_martha: (Default)
Thanks a lot on your advice !
I actually did a little bit of cartridge pleating yesterday after posting - the Home Geek has found out we can watch something on his computer while I sew. And I packed my caraco to work on it during my lunch break, now that I have found a tea salon to stay during said break.
So what I'll do will be to try and make the thing, put an option on a train ticket, and not kill myself making it. And follow [livejournal.com profile] heileen's advice about maybe not staying very long.
BTW, there's now a bus between Melun and the Castle. Unless one of you girls has a better solution, I think I'm going to use it and be very happy not to spend 30 euros for the taxi.
green_martha: (Default)
I think I've got the gaping problem fixed. I'll need to try it on again but there's no way I'm lacing myself into my corset before 6AM.
I also have cut down and bound the front edges of the lining, and unpicked the elbow seams. I'm not sure yet whether I'll just redo them a little further below or just make the sleeves shorter.

On a side note, I love slipstitching :)
green_martha: (Default)
*sigh* My caraco shows obvious signs of gaoing in the back. I need to fiw that before I finish sewing the shoulder part over the sleeve heads and attache the front...

[must-not-think-about-some-things-must-focus-on-sewing-remember-I-am-happy]
green_martha: (weird)
What ? I have less than a month till Vaux-le Vicomte ? Oh homy cow, I need to leave my murder plans on hold for now (sounds very psychotic, doesn't it ? :D ) for now, and go back to the 18th century.
I've decided that, once again, handsewing doesn't work for me. I noticed I wasn't sewing anything *because* I didn't want to handsew. So my caraco will be partly machine sewn. Actually, the sleeves are almost set in, and there's a good chance that I make big progress before the day is over. It would be nice to have the caraco done by monday, then I could work on the petticoat and skirt. And trim the hat.

[livejournal.com profile] heilee, how's your française going ?
green_martha: (green)
Ooooh I just cut the caraco pieces out of my plum/gold silk, which is more accurately a plum/bronze silk, and it's soooo yummy ! I *love* this fabric ! and... wait, did I just use less than one meter of it ? I still need to cut out the collar and sleeve ruffles, and some bias strip (which will probably be cut on the straight, he) for the neckline but hey ! I'v got plenty of it left !!! *bounces up and down*

The weather is so good... good time to go hat hunting, maybe... ^^
green_martha: (green)
As a note for myself as well as for my fellow costume geeks, the "Journée Grand Siècle" this year will be held on the 18th of June, see here for all the info.
And unless there's some big problem by then, I should be able to go, probably by car, which means I could pick you up and bring you along, [livejournal.com profile] heileen.

The outfit looks good this far. The costuming bug has totally struck and I'm handsewing most of it. I'm going nuts, I tell ya !

And another good piece of news : I should get to wear it twice this year, I'm going to Hannover in July to visit a friend, stitch and bitch and go with her to a rococo event in Neustadt. I'm happy and bouncing !

But... yeah, there's a but !
Summer means sun (I don't want to know what could happen to my muslin skirt if it rainder, to it won't rain), sun means I need some kind of protection for my head and my eyes (Vaux-le-Vicomte has a very *french* 18th century garden, so practically no shade). I'll try to hunt for some not-too-obvious-plastic sunglasses (I really don't think I can survive a sunny day without them), but I'll also need some head covering. My outfit will be roughly 1795. I stumbled upon two options:
- a *big* hat, like this
- a *big* charlotte cap, like this

Any advice on which would be easier to make/more comfortable to wear, and on how to make it ?
green_martha: (Default)
I have a working sleeve pattern ! The lower part was a kid's game, compared to the upper half. But I finally got it to work as well as possible. It's no fun having normal shoulders and very skinny arms.

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