green_martha: (gps)
It seems I brought my pink mp3 player back form the dead. or maybe it's just the plug I tried to charge it on at work that sent it into coma. Woot !

I'm not sure it really shows, but I have made some beading progress )

I've sketched a lot of this and that, too. I was so annoyed of not getting anything good done... Tonight I have a feeling like maybe my pencil is my friend again...
Sharing this cat's narghile was a BAD idea... )

Ayé !

May. 29th, 2008 11:24 pm
green_martha: (duckie)
I've earned the right to move the dress a little further on the embroidery frame ! Yeepee ! Pictures tomorrow, by daylight. I needed to take a break and celebrate this small success.

Tschaka !

May. 26th, 2008 10:32 pm
green_martha: (bustlecat)
The Pillowflower's belt is entirely beaded !

(and the underskirt and apron for the Goth Kitty are mostly done, too)

Yay for progress !
green_martha: (Default)

I have indeed been sewing, or rather, beading. Beading. And more beading. Did I mention beading ? Cause most of my free time is spent beading, you see.
I'm about 3/4 done with the belt. When I'm done with it, I want to move on to the center front. I probably won't have the full dress done by June, but it'll be wearable. I'm rather enjoying the process - although I can tell that when I'll get to the lower part of the dress it'll start to get boring.


I took a break from beading today and worked on the Goth Kitty. Which is also due soon.


The pictures show the current stage of the underskirt (mock-up), but the bodice pieces are cut out now.
green_martha: (Default)
The red pirate waistcoat for the lil' brother is DONE. Yeah !

Here it is at [livejournal.com profile] lady_darkstone's place, drying on a chair (I had just washed out the markings for the buttonholes. I'm afraid you'll have to wait for pictures with content, as Nick already proved he can't model it properly.


So now I have completed everything that's a real MUST for the men I dress up for [livejournal.com profile] lady_darkstone's wedding, I can concentrate on my own stuff. I foresee long hours of beading in the near future, with Goth Kitty and translation breaks inbetween. Wish me luck... and patience ! This is what I got accomplished after finishing the waistcoat this afternoon.

(We also took some time to cut my hair, I'm still getting used to having it only shoulder-long, and I couldn't get any good shot of the new Green Martha tonight, sorry)(BTW, [livejournal.com profile] lady_darkstone's balcony has a much better view than any hairsalon you could find)

Camouflage

Apr. 14th, 2008 11:06 pm
green_martha: (duckie)
I have officially started my most insane piece of sewing yet : beading the PillowfloweR. Mind you, I'm not going for a true 1920s entirely beaded look, I'm not masochistic enough for that yet.

But this is the result of tonight's sewing, which roughly equals two hours and a half. Yes this is the same flower, taken from two different angles so as to show the light shimmering in the beads. This is going to be looong.


As you can more or less see from the pictures, I'm using beads to make the pieces blend together at the seams. That will give me a lot of work on the center front, but giving the impression the dress is all one piece should be worth it. At least I hope so.

Sometimes I'm not entirely sure I like it. The HG, who's not much into giving compliments over my sewing, assures me it looks pretty darn good, though, so I'll keep beading. It will probably look a lot better once the whole dress is done.
green_martha: (Default)
I'm totally exhausted, with quite cramped neck and shoulders, and about to crash into bed. That may have to do with the fact that the week was very busy, probably a little too busy for my own good. We tried to make the most out of my brother's short stay with us.

For wedding stuff, click here )

For sewing stuff, click there )
green_martha: (nana)
I really need something that bring sme instant gratification those days, problem is : all the projects that HAVE to be done are on the time-consuming side.
But at last, I got one small item done. The 1920s bra is finished !
Beware ! Boobies-coverage under the cut ! )
It squishes me almost completely flat, as desired, and is relatively comfortable for my sensitive ribcage. It's definitely thicker than a modern bra, so I'm a little more conscious of what I'm wearing. The outside and the binding are poly satin, the inside is white coutil. The ends of the bra and the places where the buttonholes and buttons go have been reinforced with a second layer of coutil.
Please don't pay attention to the variosu pencil marks, I'll have to wash those away ;)

I'm pleased with it, except for one little problem :

The dress isn't hemmed anywhere, so there'd be even more bra peaking out of the neckline. I think I'll add a small fabric band here...

I have found a red glass pearls necklace to go with the dress, but I'll have to find some other shoes. The sole of one of the pretty gray ones I had is cracked... :(
green_martha: (Default)
There's a wedding-itis going on around us, I swear. The most unlikely people get infected. And it's spreading fast. Menno... I have no idea how I'll be able to negotiate with my boss to get so many free saturdays (the joys of working retail !) next year. It's a REALLY good thing we postponed to Feb. 2009, really. *blink blink*

Ahem, back to a more sewing related topic...
I'm slowly working along on the 20s bra. (BTW : I have not forgotten you [livejournal.com profile] sbuchler !). The inside are almost all done, I just need to make the slit and put in the dreaded buttons and buttonholes. I'm not sure I'm all that confident buttons and buttonholes are the most reliable thing to hold that kind of pressure. But then, hooks and eyes THAT near to the skin ? The original uses two buttons on each side. *ponders*

I also got myself a whole stack of new books, two very technical sewing and tailoring manuals which I haven't touched a lot yet, and the very beautiful book from the 20s exhibit at the Galliéra museum, which to my surprise I found at the Fnac. I'm currently drooling over that while handsewing binding to the bra's seams, it's kind of fitting, don't you think ?
green_martha: (Default)
I'm not sure how I want the pillow flower's skirt to look like, so I figured I4d show you and listen to what you think of it :

Option 1 : white triangle pointing down


Option 2 : black triangle pointing up (aka original design)


(It's just sloppily pinned in place now to get a rough idea) What d'you think ? I'm leaning towards option #2 right now.

I'm also wondering whether or not I should pu some batting into Provence's mantle, I feel the wool + interlining + lining alone could be a little light for February...
green_martha: (nana)
I'm making progress, though not on Provence. Over the last few days I mocked-up a 20s bra from a pattern from Beyers grosses Lehrbuch der Wäsche. As expected, it ran too big for me, but far much than I thought it would. It's a kind of wrap bandeau for the breasts that crosses over in the back, so thankfully the adjusting was not too fiddly. There's hardly any shaping in that thing, as its main purpose is to flatten up the girls. Proof under the Pillowflower's bodice :

I'm making this out of some cream satin I have left from my green and cream dress. Right now I have just finished assembling the pieces, and I have a bit of handsewing to do. Like applying bias tape to hide the raw edges inside, making the slit on the left back piece, doubling the center back pieces, buttons, buttonholes, binding, etc... Now at least I'll have something to keep me busy during lunch break !

Since I was uploading piccies, I can show you the brocade we picked with my mom.

I'll either have to make the collar and cuffs smaller or make them out of another fabric. My mom is not sure anyway she wants a giant shwal collar like in the original.
green_martha: (bustlecat)
It finally came, the moment where I had to admit I have *too much* fabric. Too much to choose from actually.

Tonight I braved the dark and cold garage and searched for some wool to make a short (or maybe nor so short, we'll see) mantle to go with Provence. First, I had to find my way between wine bottles, computer parts, boxes and old bikes. Second, some of the drawers were so packed with fabric I could not open them and had to partly dismantle the upper drawer to access what was inside. Third, there's no light in our garage, so I scrambled with a torchlight and took some wool upstairs. All the wools come from my grandma's stash. I found some red poly lining fabric that's a pretty good match to what I wanted as a lining. I also found a pink cotton twill printed with small flowers in a particularly disgusting shade and pattern which I'll spare you.

Anyway, the wools are under the cut )

I've almost ruled out the reddish brown. I find the greenish brown a bit too dark, plus it reminds me too much of Demeter's dolman, but it does look pretty close to the dress fabric. And then I really really *can't* decide between the two beige tones. I left the red lining in the pictures as a reminder...

*ponders ponders*

The next step, anyway, is fixing my own stupidity on the bodice mock-up (took in the WRONG shoulder seam...), then adjusting and putting in the second sleeve and see if the fit is still okay.
I'm waiting for Ikea to open next week to make a final decision on petticoat fabrics, I'm waiting for petticoat fabric to start on the underbodice, because I want them to match, I'm waiting until I have organized my beads to go back to the Pillow Flower, and I have forgotten the pattern for the 1913 jacket at work. And I must definitely put a BIG PINK WARNING SIGN over the living-room's carpet so that the Home Geek does NOT forget yet ANOTHER time that I have BEADS lying there and kicks them all around the place !!!! Gah !

Off to have dinner and watch a movie, and ponder more.
green_martha: (Default)
This morning, after having absorbed a reasonable amount of food and tea, I went out in search of a) more beads for the Pillow Flower that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg and b) trims, ribbons and the like for Provence, mainly for the hat.

So this, I had every right to buy :

Beads, some embroidery threads for handkerchiefs, two new measuring tape as I've lost mines (both of them) and don't want to go on working with Ikea paper tapes.


Organza and satin ribbons for the hat. You can see the ribbons next to the fabric and to a fabric and feather flower I've already got for the hat.

This, I should not have brought home with me...


And this is what's inside...

But come on ! the seller wanted to get rid of them all, so he really cut down the price on the whole tray, and a costumer so often needs beads... I just could not resist the sirens ! And now at last I don't have to ask myself wether or not I should take some green and red beads for the Pillow Flower, I'll just choose from what I have.

I just need to find a way to organize them... Eeeeeep !
green_martha: (Default)
I intended to post a short note before leaving for work today but hey, I'd much rather write a loooong one. And besides, I was running just as late as usual. No matter when I get up, I always end up doing this or that in the morning and therefore rushing out of the apartment 5 minutes after the time I originally planned to leave.

Five questions )

In the meantime, on the sewing front, I noticed I had sewed the front half of the Pillow Flower's waistband upside down, so that the pattern that was supposed to match (or not mismatch too much) did not. Luckily, ripping it apart and stitching it back in place did not take much time.

I had a major case of discouragment over Provence yesterday, but thanks to [livejournal.com profile] philcostumes's help (you're just made of awesome !) and to a little bit of WWKKD I'm now better.
I have taken out Demeter's bodice, copied the pattern from it by laying fabrics scraps over it and drawing on the seamlines. Which in itself is quite funny, or ironic; because Demeter was built to be worn over a corset, whereas this gown is not. There's almost no difference in the way it looks on me with or without the corset :)
The second mock-up was way better in terms of side wrinkles, though not perfect. From what I can deduct, I'm too square a girl for the original curvy lines of the avant-garde pattern. My underarm seam is an almost straight line, not a fish-shaped darty thing.
I kept the back of the Demeter bodice, however I did not want the seams running up to the neck in the front, so I mixed the front panel with the avant-garde front, and ended up with enough wiggle room over my boobs to carry an orange on each side. Not good. I know there was often some excess fabric there, but certainly not THAT much ! So on to the dummy it went, I did some intensive redraping. Now I'm going to take it apart again, cut out the new side back and front pieces and check the fit. Keep your fingers crossed ! If this gets too frustrating, I'll just start playing around with the hat.
Pictures to come !
green_martha: (plates)
La Mode from the 18th of January 1914 is up on my website !

These magazines are seriously addictive, and so is putting them up.

On the actual sewing side, over the last two days I have :
- cut out and started sewing together the "bodice" (may it be called that way ?) from the Pillow Flower. I had to recut the V-shaped plastron (I had originally intended to have a bright flower in the middle but in the end it looked better with a black V in the front and only some leaves on the sides of it), otherwise no major mishap.
- traced out and guess-worked the alterations for the 1913 jacket, and spent 15 minutes wondering what one pattern piece was. The numbers on the pattern being somewhat odd I first mistook it for a weird belt thingie. Then for a pocket. It's a sleeve cuff actually. *feels dumb* Much easier to understand when you have access to the instructions and the picture of the finished garment.
- unpicked the sleeves from Provence's mock-up and took apart the underbodice, in preparation of mock-up #2. Because I find I can't move my arms around enough and there were some weird wrinkles at the sides that I want to make sure are eliminated.
- eBay-ed a 1923 issue from Le Petit Echo de la Mode, been outbid on a 1876 bound volume from La Mode Illustrée, and kept an eye on some other stuff in the like that I'll bid on tomorrow before leaving for work.

So I feel kind of okay with what I have accomplished so far. I'm in a mood to keep on sewing for some time and work on Provence mock-up #2, except I know it's a bad idea. Tomorrow is a workday, and it's already late. So to bed I must go.
green_martha: (coin)
I've been struggling with myself to NOT go to bed right after coming home from work, without great success. The brain has gone to bed. So I find myself staring at Provence and wondering "what's the next step ?". The only summat mindless task I could find was partially cutting out the Pillow Flower. I'm going to cut it out, sew it together and only then bead it. There are some spots where I want to extand a flower bead over a seam or partially hide a seam under beads. Which leads me to the thought that I definitely don't have enough beads around here, and have to go buy more. I'd like to add some golden and red beads to the mix. Maybe a few turquoise ones, too.
Ok, enough babbling, I'm brain-dead. I need to go to bed. I hope tomorrow will be more productive sewing-wise. At least I have a 2-hours lunch break, so I'll have time to scale up the 1913 jacket.
green_martha: (design)
...I have enough fabric for the beaded "Pillow Flower" flapper dress. The not so good news being I don't have that much fabric leftover if I screw up.

Off to search for some tombour embroidery tutorials...
green_martha: (Default)
Yesterday I managed to pattern, cut out and partly put together the kitty chemise. Today I handsewed lace around the armholes. And that's all. The chemise has pintucks but no hem, the yoke is not assembled with the body yet, and there's a seam in the front that I still have to close - must try it on the kitty first to check where. And I'm tiiiiiired.

But I'm happy, for several reasons. First, blogging gives me a good opportunity to avoid admitting I'm completely insane - like, I can say the pintucks are all [livejournal.com profile] ahsamanja_babu's fault, she made me do it ! *grin*
Then, I have plenty of fresh fruit and vegetable again, yay for that.
And lastly, I splurged and bought a book on 1920's underwear - it's a reprint from a 1927, with pattern sheets, very similar to this one, a reprint from 1901 which I have already talked about. Well, I did not really splurge that much, it was still under 30 euros including shipping. And speaking of the 1901 one, I got a shock when I saw the price ! Glad I bought it when it was still affordable ! Not that it's that expensive for what the book is worth, actually.

Hmmm... I'm not sure I'm that coherent any more, so I think I'll just Go. To. Bed.
green_martha: (bustlecat)


The Kitty got open-crotch drawers today ! They have french seams on the legs, overlap at the front and back, and are closed with a button and buttonhole in the back. There's one place in the fabric which has been teared in repaired, which I only noticed after I had put the lace on and tutti quanti... well, period underwear got mended the same way, after all ! ;)

Tomorrow : the chemise. I'm not sure I'll resist the pin tucks sirens...

I tried to run a few errands on yesterday's list today. With no success. Tambour embroidery is not widely spread enough for notions dealers to carry tambour hooks and specific books on the topic around here. And they had the grommets, but only in a packagning that did not include the setting tool. Which of course is not in my possession. May I say I find it a little weird to carry a certain size of grommet, but not the tool to put them into your clothing ? *rolls eyes* I'll have a llok at another notions dealer I know in town, but after that I'll be doomed to make handbound eyelets... *sigh*

[livejournal.com profile] heileen or any local tambour-embroiderer, where did you get your tambour hook ? The closest place I can order some is in Germany, which does not bother me too much, except... well shipping would cost less if the seller was based in France.

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