green_martha: (plates)
Okay, I started really going through all the text parts in my books.
On the 26th of January, 1896, La Mode Illustrée, pp. 30-31, says sleeves entirely lined with a stiff fabric are now a rarity (so they DID entirely line the sleeves before !). Sleeves should now only use a 20cm deep, 60cm long horsehair ruffle attached on the sleeve lining (between the lining and the fashion fabric), a little below the armhole, on the upper side of the arm only, not on the underside.
By the way, the text also says skirts are made of heavy woolen fabrics that don't require a lining. Skirts of lightweight fabrics and silk should be lined with a stiff fabric like horsehair, at least for the three box pleats in the backs.
There are a LOT more information tidbits in those texts, covering fabric advice, tips on how to refurbish an old dress, collar and cuff shapes... I just have to sieve through this. I will probably end up gathering all of it into some... thing, for my own use for this 1890s project. I have to think about this more, as I'm pretty sure it could be of interest to other costumers. Suggestions are always welcome :)
green_martha: (plates)
Before I go back to working on some mid-1890s stuff, I figured I might as well scan just a few images from my 1917 book. *big grin* It's not much, but there's a lot more to come. This morning I picked up the 1895 and 1896 books from La Mode Illustrée, I also have two other books from 1895 waiting. And there are still some pictures on my site awaiting text.
I have found a tartan blouse from 1895 tha I like, so I *think* I have a general concept of what I want the blouse to look like. Or two. I'm debating whether or not to line it and I'm leaning towards a lining. It will make it hang better. My 1893 blouse pattern says only wash goods blouses should be left unlined. As a bonus point, I could use the same lining as a base for the cream and green blouse as well.
green_martha: (plates)
I finished uploading the images and adding the descriptions today. This one is a loose issue (with pattern sheet !) from a magazine I haven't come accross that often, La Mode Pratique. After seeing this one almost disintegrate just from being scanned, I think the paper quality might have reduced the chances of this particular magazine to survive for long :/ Anyway, it's now up and I won't need to touch it to look at the pretties again. The search system is still very whacky, but at least we identified the issue precisely, that's something, right ? Now I just need my code-wizard husband to correct the issue...
green_martha: (plates)
I'm working hard on this, so don't expect me not to publicize it :p
I'm about a third through adding texts and keywords to the current 1896 image collection. There's some funkiness in the search system right now, and I haven't done the necessary "plumbing" to get the customized search form I want, so you can't really search for "dress" or "velvet walking dress", as should be the case. Gah ! Code is so full of errors and glitches and bugs and gremlins ! But searching works with french keywords (as soon as the new content has been indexed), and clicking on one keyword above the picture will show you all other images tagged with the same term.
BTW, if you stumble upon anything that makes you cringe, or have an idea for a nifty feature I might try to implement, just go ahead ! We're still working on the structure of the site and adding and changing things daily, and I don't have to pay a webdesigner to help me maintain it. Help me keep the Home Geek's grey cells busy, he enjoys it !
(adding a link to the next and previous pictures is already on the to-do list)

Oooooh...

Feb. 26th, 2011 03:56 pm
green_martha: (plates)
1895-04-13
I'll go back to scanning the 1896 I was working on later, but I wanted to share at least one pic from La Mode Nationale. It's the latest one I bought and recieved. The covers ar ein a sorry state, the inside are yellowed a lot, but the engravings are breathtakingly beautiful !

I'm taking a break from the quilted petticoat, I think I'm about halfway done with the first panel... *is tired*
green_martha: (plates)
Because I'm too lazy to get up and take pictures of my new skirt (I'll do that while the kid sleeps this afternoon, I promise !), I give you a Friday Five )

As I said, new (pregnancy) skirt is done, and comfy. I made the hem per hand so that it doesn't leave a mark and I can redo the skirt post-pregnancy. Pretty grey velvet with colored roses, me likes. This bring my project count to 12-3 so far, yay !
I also finished basting the back and front pieces of the justeaucorps, have to cut out the sleeves now and baste it all together... and hope someday this year or next year I can have a fitting with my brother because I'm not putting that together without one last fitting, dammit !
I also finally got matching thread and quilting pins for the quilted ensemble, so once I have drawn out the pattern I'm good to go. That should happen today.
And I'm waiting and waiting for my packages to come. The 1912 book was supposed to be here on wednesday, the website says they came when no one was home (which I kinda doubt), then it said it would be delivered the next day, aka yesterday, but nothing came. Now it says it should be delivered shortly. I'm wondering if that means it'll finally come today... In the meantime, I'm scanning my way through the 1898 book - as we're planning a 1898 set LARP someday, it seemed logical to go through this one first. Plus, it's my all time favorite year. And I have this plaid taffetas that would be *awesome* for an 1898 dress... If I don't get distracted by some soutache stuff...

1898-02-06

Oh, let's not forget the handy link to the pictures !
green_martha: (plates)
I just wanted to check when some books ended on eBay before I bid... And guess what jumped to my face ? Two other books, in buy-it-now, at a really good price. One is from a less frequent magazine, it probably has less pictures, but it's a year I don't have in La Mode Illustrée and it was cheap. The other is a Mode Illustrée, complete year, from 1912. You rarely find those as bound editions around here. The price was more than okay as well. I'll keep an eye and possibly bid on the others I have bookmarked for today, as they're still really cheap and from earlier years. We'll see, but I'm not gonna bid a lot on those.
Wow, it's been an expensive week so far... Fabric, books,... and yesterday I caved and bought a new machine. I've been looking out for a used one for months now (ever since TheTank broke), and nada, nothing. Well, I could find an antique treadle one. But I've already got one, what I need is something able to handle mucho thickness of fabric, buttonholes and zigzag. Yesterday I went on an expedition to an antique dealer that has a whole stock of old machines but nada, only treadles again, or a Singer where I couldn't move the wheel. The visit was a bit of an adventure in itself as the guy is around 80 and clearly his brain is as old as himself... He had a hard time understanding what I wanted (I'm not even sure he did, as he ended the trip by showing me yet another straight-stitch-only machine), kept showing me his own, not for sale, industrial zig-zag machine while I was telling him I wanted something portable (and that I could BUY, btw)... and on the exit I almost bumped into a nightmare client from work. Yay !
Anyway, I now have a pretty, brand new, mechanical Husqvarna/Viking Emerald 116. I loved it at the shop, it seems to meet all my requirements, and it was around my budget - a little more than planned, but not by much.
And I swear, after today, I'm only going to buy groceries for a while.
green_martha: (Default)
... my dress dummy is really crooked on those last pictures. Dammit, Janet, I need something better than this as a dummy ! But where to find it ? Not to mention the $$$, which we're just planning to spend on a new door and a new garage door, and then on renovating the bathroom if the $$$ are enough. Oh woe ! Priorities, I haz dme but I don't likez dem !

Like, I could sleep, or scan pretties. Or sew. I think Now that I've scanned pretties, I'll just go sew. I have to get used to being sleep deprived again, right ?
Ahem, yeah, I think my brain is a little silly tonight.
I lost my TV french vest bodice pattern, and all its subsequent incarnations but for the camel 1880s mantle. It kinda sucked to have to re-pattern the sleeves but it went surprisingly fast. I only wish I had a better idea of what I want to do with said sleeves. The top will be slightly pouffy, and gathered under the elbow, then straight out of velvet. But I want to add some brocade as well, and can't find a way to do it nicely.
We had an appointment at the hospital for a check-up for Heimlich today, too, and he was just perfect, despite the car, the long walks (the hospital is just THAT big), and waiting endlessly. He was a charmer all along, playing peek-a-boo and "talking" to other women in the waiting rooms. for some reasons men don't have such an appeal... unless they're family, they barely get a look.
green_martha: (Default)
The world needed something *really special* for me to be able to post corset pictures. Like snow in November !

A little blurry : Heimlich's first real snow day ! It didn't get much more white than that, although it snowed for a few hours. Right after we went out it started melting and then the sun came out. But now at least the mountains are all covered in pretty white stuff.
My boy wasn't thrilled with the white-wet-stuff-that-you-can't-really-hold-in-your-hands, and soon wanted to head back inside where All The Toyz (tm) are. But look ! He's standing all by himself in this picture ! *giggles from excitement*


Very ugly mock-up piccies... I made the slits higher - both in front and in the back-, and there's a sliding buckram reinforced piece under the front slits. I'm sticking my belly out a bit in those pictures, there isn't that much watermelon-smuggling going on yet !


And a teeny tiny fraction of the eyelets. they're not perfect - mine never are - but they do the job and I like the color contrast. It looks better in real life - my old digicam is kinda crappy and the lighting was that of a pre-snow day...

I feel like I have fallen over to the dark side, but I'm finding myself wanting a crinoline now...

I'm in love with the one on the left, the one in the middle, and I kind of want the mantle and the hem decoration of the one on the right as well ! I recieved the package with my 1867 and 1869 books this morning and haven't really had time to look inside them since, just a brief peak into the 1867 which stung right to my heart...
Keep looking at the bottom of the page for almost daily new scans ! I'm pretty proud of myself for keeping up the scanning work... I post some of the best to my FB page, too.
green_martha: (Default)
... or maybe I'm just kicking my feet up and taking it easy while the kid is at the sitter. The HG would probably try to shove me into bed for a nap, actually. But I find it's mor einteresting to share my latest eBay goodness with you !

People, those are real fabric bits ! I'm so excited to be able to get an idea of the weight and hand of a few of the fabrics used in that period !
And did you see the "Vichy" ? First, we'd definitely call it Madras. And second, they say (behind the fabric), that it's meant for bath robes and dresses. Can you picture a dress out of THIS ? Well, I can, but I've always been told my color tastes tend to hurt other people's eyes... *big grin*
green_martha: (Default)
Yeah, I'm up at a stupid hour, especially for someone on sick leave because of extreme fatigue. *shakes head* My blankets were sliding too much in th eHG's direction, so he poke dme a little, and BAM ! I was up and freaking out over a) what I'm going to wear over my 1887 red bustle dress (highly probably, the camel coat I made for the Avant-Garde dress, I think I has enough space behind the legs, or I'll whip up a talma in no time - so it's a non issue, really) and b) the fact that there are ugly shiny polyester dresses in the world and people who make and wear them. No kidding, the thought of it kept me awake.

And since I'm THAT bad at doing nothing and just staying in bed, I got up and went back to my Erris corset. I presently just finished the right part of the back lacing. That's 11 eyelets. This corset half needs 21 more. Then another 32 on the other side. Then inserting bones, waist tape (could have done that while stitching on the sewing channels actually...

My gallery system ist still broken so I can't really work on my site, but scanning pictures is still a pretty good way to keep me entertained while handsewing, and I love sharing. So here you go for some pretties from January 1887 :

Promenade dresses

The rest goes under here... )

There are more coming, but since the gallery's broken, I can't generate the thumbnaisl anymore, so they all go as links only at the bottom of this page.
green_martha: (plates)
I have new pretties to show you all !

Don't you love the little girl's outfit in the last one ?

Now it's back to handsewing binding (and seeing the end of it) and scanning.

Squee !

Jan. 17th, 2007 08:49 am
green_martha: (Default)
I got my fashion magazines + patterns yesterday ! They are soooo cool ! Now I want to sew some mid teens something...

Aaaaand I e-mailed the seller who had the 1901 book of La Mode Illustrée, he put it back on as a Buy-it-now auction, and guess who got a complete fashion magazine year for unde r20 euros, inclusive shipping fees ? (Have to mail the check today) Yatta !

*Yawn*

Jan. 8th, 2007 03:44 am
green_martha: (Default)
Now I'm tired. I have webbed one magazine, except for the needlework which was only scanned. I have scanned the half of another one.
The dolman ? two seams per hand and then belt & closure.

Not that much, but it's always something.
green_martha: (Default)
Look, I can move my arms !


The dolman only needs some handstitching, a belt, and hook and eyes (bleh !)


And this you get as a bonus ! It's only a very small portion of the pictures from the issues from La Mode Illustrée which I bought last month.

Gowns for the bride and her sister, 12th of december 1880

Ballgowns for the spring, 30th of April 1882
I want the one on the left. I want it badly. I want to swish in it !
green_martha: (design)
Yep, again !

Some have suffered a bit and got some text marks, so I got them for cheap. I thought they were beautiful nonetheless :)
green_martha: (twirling)
I-have-uploaded-my-fashion-plates. All-of-them. Gah !

As usual, the image will take you to the page.

If I am lucky I may get about the same amount of new plates at the end of the week...
green_martha: (bustlecat)
I have finally scanned another bunch of my fashion plates. The 1826 ones are still not complete, but I've umploaded the beautiful one smy mom gave me last Christmas.

The thumbnail will take you to the page !

Eye Candy !

Aug. 3rd, 2006 12:04 am
green_martha: (design)
A bit older than the CC pictures we'll get to see soon...
Take a look here and here ! More to come in the 1826 folder when I have time to scan the others ones. And I have a few big 1870s and 1890s plate yet to show you.

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