green_martha: (jti)
I tried searching for the yardage requirements of some mid to late 1890s skirts, and all I got was "OMG you can't survive under 5 yards !!!".
I took the pattern pieces out of my trusty Ageless Patterns package (don't remember the number, but the skirt is perfect and the jacket is pretty close), laid them out on the blue wool... I might have to piece a teeny tiny bit the side, but it fits ! Hahah, take THAT 5 yards ! (I have something like 2,5 yards)
Still, I haven't found tha tmany examples of strong color contrasts for the last years of the 19th century, so I'm considering using a brown wool twill I inherited from my Grandma.
I went fabric shopping today, and came back with a mauve and white shot taffetas for a petticoat, purple and black tweed for a commission, some stark white fine cotton for underwear, and I couldn't pass up the check taffetas in green and cream. It shall become another 1890s blouse to go with the brown skirt. It also works with my existing 1898 skirt, and it would look awesome as a complete day dress... Decisions decisions...
green_martha: (nana)
And it feels weird that I'm turnign into a researcher, me, the "OMG it's prettiz I wants its "-girl. I'm looking through my magazines collection, compiling tartan occurrences and looking at silk vs. plain petticoats and at how to get the correct fullness at the bottom. Mighty ruffles of Doom ! Lots and lots of ruffles on top of ruffles on top of flounces on top of... You get the picture.

First, I need to make myself some actual clothes to wear for Easter-shmeaster-when-do-we-do-this-Heileen-? I'm looking for plaid blouses, because I have four meters of plaid taffetas, and this photograph has made me want to make an 1890s plaid blouse for years.
Now the questions :
- which year do I choose ? I have a soft spot for some 1895-96 designs, but tartan really does seem typical of 1897-98. The sleeves would be a little more work, as I haven't yet found patterns or diagrams for those, but I could go a little more crazy on the trim. And I have a bazillion skirt patterns/cutting diagrams at hand.
- OMG I have to choose a fabric ! The blouse itself is settled. I have some silk remnants from my wedding dress that coordinate quite well and would make nice accents. I'm leaning towards some wool or the like for the skirt.
Option one would be the same short plush I used for my 1885 dolman. I then have different shades of wool* twills that might work, one more reddish brown, one a lighter brown. It also suddenly occurred to me there's a hint of light blue-grey in the plaid, and I have the world's prettiest lightweight blue wool*, but alas, only 2 meters. I doubt I can wing an entire bell skirt out of that.

The skirt won't get done for a while, though. First I will concentrate on the blouse and make the waistband of my existing 1898 skirt a smidge larger - I made the skirt before Heimlich, it's a little too tight now, not much, I don't expect to have to move the zipper**.
Then I'll need proper petticoats, because I'm ashamed of the ones I have, and after I've read a very complete description of a fashionable 1898 silk petticoat, I can't see a way to alter my existant ones to my satisfaction. Now if only I could find a nice, cheap taffetas with rosebuds or B&W stripes (it can be synthetic, as long as it's not screaming "Polyester !" too loudly, but it has to be cheap). And lace. I need yards and yards of lace.
Then probably the rest of the underwear : chemise, drawers, corset cover.

And only after that am I allowed to make plans for the next ensemble... but the dark turquoise wool is talking to me in my sleep :p


*all wools courtesy of my grandmother's hidden mighty wool stash of doom that we found while emptying the house. It filled about 1/4th of her wardrobe, and she didn't even sew !
**Yes, it has a zipper, I wear it in everyday life, so it got everyday conveniences.
green_martha: (bustlecat)
Wow, I'm tidying up the house, I'm impressing myself. It started because we got some flour mites, highly probably from the store we bought flour (guess who's going to find a new flour provider ?) some months ago. We got pretty much rid of all the ones in the pantry, but one of the bastards managed to lay eggs under a statue near the hearth and some larvae crawled into portrait frames. YUCK ! So while I was checking every single frame in the room, emptying my little sewing nook, I put some more frames up that had been waiting, re-ordered the sewing notions, and while I was at it, I cleared the top of the cedar trunk we have at the top of the stairs. I have a huge "to-mend-or-alter" pile, but I got rid of some useless scraps, put the interesting ones (i.e. big enough for doll clothing or small decoration) in the storage bin, and put all the good fabrics that were waiting there in a neat pile. And, buried under a lot of scraps, failed early attempts at draping (back when I trusted my dummy to resemble me), I have FINALLY found again my brown cotton voile ! It's really nice and airy, with a striped border woven in on one edge. I bought it something like 7 years ago, with Regency in mind, put it away while I worked on something else, moved twice, and couldn't find it again. It was so frustrating ! Now I'm happy I lost it for a while, because I'll be able to do a much better work. When I find the time that is. I only have 4 meters though, so it might be tough to squeeze a full dress out of it. Unless of course I make it into a dress for Ariane - the privilege of having kids !

Peaceful

Apr. 25th, 2011 03:18 pm
green_martha: (nerd baby)
My parents are gone. I do adore them, but with them getting old it's a little more work every time they come. I sewed squat during their time here - but I did get some fabrics. Fabrics for skirts my Mom commissionned me to make her, and as a payment I got a dark blue printed cotton for my Regency project, some modern stuff, and 12 meters of various white fabrics - light ones with varying degrees of sheerness. One I have earmarked for a new fichu, another for a 1920 combination.
I think I'm all set on making a 1920 outfit for the Ajecta/train ride event in September. I have a fabric I love which seems to be pretty period. I have, if I deem it necessary to achieve the line, the right bra-thing. It'd be quicl to make and I have at least two dresses in mind that I could make AND have the pattern for. Not couting the suits. A suit would be more appropriate as travelling garb, but also more work, and I'd have about one month and a small baby to make this. I still get to make a pretty silly hat, and I have shoes that would work.

2011-04-24
Now here's my latest trim idea for the quilted caraco. What do you think ? Pretty, Y/N ?
It's just a test strip, pinned on the neckline edge for a rough idea. I honestly can't decide. It'd be more work, but I like it. But then, I also like it without.

It's all quiet here, there's a an apple cake baking in the oven, the kid is asleep and I'm going to work on setting those sleeves in. I have way too much sleeve fabric for the armhole, and pleating it gives too much poof with such a stiff material...
2011-04-25

Back to DW

Apr. 7th, 2011 06:23 pm
green_martha: (Default)
LJ is acting up here as well now. I'm making a back-up and crossposting for now, we'll see how things evolve. To all of you who are on DW, drop me a line so that I can add you ! (well, unless I already did so months and months ago)

2011-04-05
I've put up both myfolding screens, one upstairs and oen downstairs, and I love how they fit into our home. One is hiding an ugly heater, the other my "current projects" fabric pile.

Now, I mentionned how Heileen has a bad influence on me. Look what she caused ! I started on a new project ! And I totally underestimated how much effort it would be. Not the sewing or patterning, mind you (the good old "let's put a t-shirt that fits over the muslin and draw around it"-technique still works fine), but the wringling a toddler into and out of a mock-up. Because it's so funny when Mommy is chasing you around the house !

The trousers are fairly roomy for now, I don't want them to be too narrow - I'd love these to last more than a few months - but I might still make them a little narrower. I haven't checked the fit of the sleeves yet.
I first thought about making a fairly straightforward opening in the back and sides for the trousers, but now I'm tempted to reproduce the closure system on this suit because... it's cute !
And while I'm link-dumping, here's a reproduction skeleton suit on a toddler, and it just makes me go awwwwwwwwww ! More references include the two Tidens Toj extant ones, which Ihonestly find a lot less cute. There are other adorable reproductions by Arts et Métiers. I'm still assembling more pictures, and pondering things like buttons. I'll probably skip the period shoes and underwear. He'll wear this in the summer and he really doesn't like heat (like his Daddy - most days he's wearing one layer less than myself, and if the weather keeps getting warmer he'll soon be out of closed shoes and into sandals. Whatever I'll do, I'll never have a totally period-correct boy anyway - all glasses for his age are plastic...

On a final, not so happy note, I went to the fabric store today, as I'm almost out of thread for the quilted ensemble. I foudn some cotton organdi, which I usually buy every time I come accross some. The first time I bought some (on the clearance table), it was 1 euro/meter. Last year (also on the clearance table), it was 2 euros/meter. Today ? Still in the clearance section, FIVE euros pro meter. 5. Five. Ouch. I did not buy it, even though I'm constantly using it, I can't justify shelling out that much right now. I'll look into alternatives and will buy some if I have a specific need for it, but I'm not stashing it anymore. Okay, maaaaybe I'll buy some if my 20% off coupon works for it next week. But given it's on clearance, I doubt that.
green_martha: (Default)
... and a fabric shop in his back yard. Or rather, his former back yard is now covered with something (I'm not sure one should even call it a building) hosting lots of bolts of lots of things.

THANK YOU for existing ! Finding correct fabric at the local fabric stores has become a major pain these past few years. I love it when I ask for cotton voile and the answer is not only yes, it's 3 euros/meter and comes with a smile.

But I really, really have to stay away from your shop for awhile because I have enough fabric to complete all my projects until August. And if I take one more look at your stock I might end up with at least two projects I have no use for.

Tomorrow I'll go back to my hats, tonight I'm too tired. And after the hats I'll make a new mock-up for my florentine bodice. I have one that's close enough but the straps are in the wrong place and I'd like the look to be somewhat correct. For now it's good night !
green_martha: (duckie)


I have a finished hat ! - minus trimmings. I need to find some suitable black fabric and to order black ostrich feathers.

I also have 25 meters of fabric. Ahem. Buuuuuuuut...
1) I needed fabric for a summery early bustle. See indescribable first exhibit.
2) They had a bolt of white sheer striped cotton voile and [livejournal.com profile] lady_darkstone only wanted the half of it. See exhibit in the middle.
3) They had the blue indienne I'd been drooling over last year (but they didn't have when I went out to find fabric for my Vaux outfit. See last exhibit.
4) All of it was 3 euros/meter !!!!


Bad lighting courtesy of It's-2AM-And-I-Can't-Sleep on all pictures. Except it's now 4AM, as I took the pictures before spending some time browsing the web and finishing the hat.

I brilliantly forgot to buy black trimming fabric for the hat that presently sits on my head and fr the regency bonnet - although the guy had some !!! I could just kick myself in the but. Maybe [livejournal.com profile] lady_darkstone wants to go to MT on Thursday to find her red organza and I'll pick some stuff - I brought her along today and this resulted in her starting her regency outfit. Don't you just HATE people who can just wring a mock-up in 20 minutes and one fitting ? Starting from sratch ? (as in : no previous pattern at hand, not even taking measurements or using her own shirt as a pattern base. Drawing the pieces free hand on the fabric with one eye on the reference picture for seam placement. GRRRRR !)

Do I now try to get some sleep or do I start the fichu ?
green_martha: (believe)
I was reminded of a serious lack of posting recently by some(one) who should remain unamed... So here's a little - very tired - update.
we're leaving tomorrow for our annual "Amber in August" gaming week. I'm struggling to get everything done - clothes and bedsheets are packed, but not all the sewing, drawing, knitting, cooking, reading and juggling necessities are. Here's a sneak pic of our stuff :

I'm actually finding this rather small compared to other years. Granted, the juggling and knitting bags are downstairs. And the board games haven't been packed.
Right, I'm babbling. I'm trying to be good and concentrate on thign sthat MUST get done tonight, like finish packing and moving our bedroom into the purple room, so that my Dad can put the hardwood floor while we're away, but I have trouble concentrating. I'm so tired I could just curl up in a ball and sleep for twelve hours straight. I probably will tomorrow night, like I did last Saturday. And take a nap.

I do, however, have some vague sewing content. Today I went to Toto to pick some lining fabric for my mom's teen suit, and I stumbled upon this cotton pretty :

It's a bit more coral than orange in real life. The good news is it was only 1 euro/meter. The bad news is there only was oen meter left. The even worse news is that it's only 75cm wide. The question is : what am I going to do with it ? Any suggestions for some 18th century item that would require so little fabric ? (aside from the obvious hat, shoes and purse) Or a way I could pair it with something else ? My mind is pretty blank on this. I just know I love it and I want to make something 18th century with it. And I'm trying to resist the urge to dive into doll outfits.

Right, I should go and retrive the various items still laying around in the living room and put them into bags.
green_martha: (bustlecat)
... in a good way so :)
She's afraid I might get cold in February in Paris and offers to buy me some warmer fabric, or some silk. Tss tss... and the mail came right after I came accross some MARVELOUS FANTABULOUS GORGEOUS STRIPED silks today. I kid you not, I was drooling all over them.
For my fellow french costumers who want to burn a hole in their wallet, they've just came in at my local Toto, and they cost 18 bucks/meter. And now I want a fiery copper anglaise. With stripes. And that's only because the yellow and green or the old rose and mauve tones don't suit me that great. Except I'm really not sure I'll have time for an anglaise this year. *insert heavy sigh here*
(and, besides, Vaux-le-Vicomte is on the 15th of June, so one week before [livejournal.com profile] lady_darkstone's wedding, so I'm not that sure I'll be able to attend)(but I'll do my best)

What else ? More Ikea-non-love : there'a hardly any linen left in town now. And the precise one I wanted was out of stock. And my stripey second choice was 1m30 short. So I'll have a stripey and a non-stripey petticoat, and they don't really match. *missa sad* Well, my boss think they match, I'm not that sure they don't mismatch too much...

And I found my HG's christmas gift, and I do think he'll like it. *evil grin*
green_martha: (Default)
It will be the twill. I don't have much of it, like, just enough for a short mantle. Whereas I have enough for a not too full dress (think teens) of the angora wool. I feel like I wouldn't do its gorgeousness justice by using up one third of it for a mantle and then not knowing what to do with the rest.

Now I'm off to check whether Mondial Tissus has something affordable in terms of linen. Me, fabric whore ?
green_martha: (Default)
Hey I've got pictures !

The fabrics I bought in Marseille and at the discount counter here )

Then, the fabric for my wedding dress ! )

The kitty corset is done except for the binding and eyelets. I'm granting myself a break from it and will now work on draping the pillowflower. Where do I have some muslin or similar mock-up appropriate fabric ?
green_martha: (design)
That was a good week. Besides from getting my holiday week in August, I also got myself a beautiful picknick basket, so that I foresee victorians and rococo picknicks in my future and that of my friends. I also got me a pair of vaguely rococo-esque earrings from work (how good is this place, he ? ^^) *and* this morning I went fabric hunting. Or rather inspiration hunting, as I told myself as I entered Toto.
Turns out it is the only place in town that sells silk taffetas, 15 euros/meter is not cheap, but not that expensive either, and their pale yellow would make a stunning outfit. They also have a sheer, cream colored silk muslin, for 3,80 euros/meter. How about that [livejournal.com profile] heileen ? Are you going to hate me forever now ?
I somehow managed to not buy anything, especially not the orange dupioni (which looks almost like taffetas and is just as heavy). But I'm going back for it next week. I was hesitating to order orange cotton sateen from Stoff am Stück, but the silk has a shine nothing can top, even if it's twice as expensive.

I've been fantasizing about my costume for next year, and... well I have a few ideas, but since there's a lot of time ahead the concept is very likely to undergo many changes 'till then. So for now, it will just be known as my Simkin project (those of you who've read a certain series by Weis & Hickmann will be able to make the link with the orange silk)(no, I'm not coming to Vaux as a teapot !)

Whoops...

Apr. 6th, 2006 06:19 pm
green_martha: (green)
As [livejournal.com profile] marquesate would say, I had a small "accident". My credit card was so eager to spend money on this cotton print, and then it just was in my bag. How weird ^^
So now I really need to get my stays finished because I've got a) all the stuff I needed to finish them and b) two possible fabrics for a caraco or pierrot jacket (and I still have a few differents cottons to pick from for the skirt). One is a green, red and cream stripey fabric I bought last year (I think I posted pictures back then) - mmmmh stripes ! - and the accidental one has a floral pattern in mauve, orange and green, that looks pretty darn period. It cost only 6,90 euros/meter, and I have been in love with those fabrics (they have them in other tints, and in stripey patterns too) ever since Mondial Tissus started carrying them - and I was very jealous of my mom because she bought some of the same fabric, only on a lime green instead of cream background, to make a tablecloth... soooo jealous. The fabric is a bit lightweight, but I've got plenty of nice, sturdy white cotton twill (and if I need more, the store still carries it in every possible color) to interline it with. Now I'm debating about which fabric I should use first... decisions decisions...

I've been posting many CVs here and there lately, I feel like I really need a break right now... so back to sewing, wheeeeeeh !

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