green_martha: (demeter)
I thought it might be of some use to others who might want to make a smiliar hat not to fiddle too much with paper and buckram.

Hat for middle-aged lady, 1883 : pattern and making-of
green_martha: (design)
18th of February 1883

All the magazines I've put online so far are in French, and frankly, I don't think I4ll translate anything until I've scanned the whole bulk of them, and learned some more fashion and fabrics terms in English. Some of the mentioned fabrics I had never heard of before, even in French, so I'll have trouble translating that.
Anyway, I hope you'll like it.

As for me, I'm going back to my dolman's closures. Or should I put my things into the suitcase already ?
green_martha: (Default)
(That's what you get to hear if I catch my reflection in the window) I currently have something on my head... like errr.... my sewing notions dealer's shop just exploded ? And there actually are two vivid green flowers with feathers right on top of it... Huh !
In other words : the hat is done.

Let's feel accomplished : )

Not sure I can work on the dolman tonight, but I have tomorrow afternoon aaaaaaall for myself !

Thanks !

Mar. 12th, 2007 11:50 pm
green_martha: (twirling)
You gals are wonderful, you know that ? Thanks a lot for the ego boost !

So, tonight I picked the movie, and even if someone here is to shoot me, I must proclaim that Age of Innocence bored us both to death and that we stopped before the end because I couldn't take it anymore - even though I was sewing at the same time and the costumes were gorgeous.

I got the under- and overskirt finished, and the hat is coming together nicely. It now has green lace, green satin ribbon, brown satin ribbon, lime velvet ribbon and one brown organza rose on it, expect some more green ribbon, brown roses and green lily-like flowers with feathers - which I'll probably have to tone down with tea, as the green is currently a little too bright for the rest of the hat.

I'm workign on the bodice in my lunchtime, and the dolman should come next.
green_martha: (bustlecat)
I prepared the bodice, boning channels and boning for me to sew at work tomorrow. Then I worked on the hat while watching Devil's Advocate with the Home Geek. And I liked it. The hat, mainly. The film was okay. Next time I get to choose and it will either be Man to Man, age of Innocence or The Perfume :D

I've got a dumb headache again, it's late, and I've found my lime colored velvet ribbon again, so I'm off to bed with one of my Preciouses - I think year 1881 this time. ;)
green_martha: (Default)
I thought I had less than one meter of german boning left, and look what I find when I open the storage bag ?

here is proof that children scissors are not as sturdy as boning.

And while I'm at it, here are some pics from the overskirt )

May I add some buttonholes and matching mother-of-pearl buttons )
green_martha: (Default)
We're gonna melt next week in winter bustles... and yet it will still be winter, going by the calendar... *looks at all the green on the balcony*

Back to sewing. Buttonholes done, bodice in need of :
- buttons
- some boning
- inner waistband
- find something to get the collar to behave.

Underskirt :
- move one bar

Overskirt :
- add hooks and bars
- add ribbon bows

Only after that will I worry about the hat and the dolman. Hat first I think.
green_martha: (Default)
... not met. I must try the overskirt on over all the proper layers to mark the closure. But I did get the two... thingies cut out, sewn and trimmed with ribbon bows, and I shortened two trousers for the HG. Not too shabby.
green_martha: (Default)
Finish the overskirt.

Ready... set... sew !
green_martha: (bustlecat)
Five of them ! Only five more to go ! Yay !
green_martha: (Default)
I'm sooooo tired... and I could have been in bed much earlier, given how clouded the sky turned in the last half hour *grump* Good side ? That gave me an excuse to stay up, and thus, I got my underskirt done ! Hem and closures included, yay !

Must not think about empire ball gown. Other projects first. Not enough info about empire ball. Must not think about tambour embroidery. No needles yet. Must not skip mind from beaded flapper dress to empire ball gown....

Baby steps

Feb. 26th, 2007 10:22 pm
green_martha: (Default)
I *am* making progress. I really am. It just does not show... *sigh*
I think it's time for a list of what remains to be done, to convince me that I WILL get it done on time.
Hidden because it's mainly for my own use )
That isn't such a long list, right ?
green_martha: (bustlecat)
The overskirt is done ! Technically, it still needs a hook and a bar at the waist, but that will wait till I try everything on to check the waist measurement. Lots of handsewing, that was - only two seams were done by machine. Which means yes, I have my machine back and according to the repairman it's old and tired. I just hope she lasts me some more years *sigh*.
I've moved on to the underskirt. I have taken the front and back pieces apart and must now procede to flatline the nex front piece. I'm redoing the waistband too, as the opening of the skirt has moved its position isn't right anymore. But I had done a very hasty job when I put it on the first time around, so it's a good thing I'm redoing it.
green_martha: (twirling)
Dear, LJ suddenly turned PINK with little hearts... I hope it's not contagious...
Anyway, I came here to report that we have achieved a successfull underskirt mockup. Remind me please why I bothered with a pattern for my first underskirt attempt ? I merely kept the back of said first attempt, put it on Karinga over my bustle and petticoat, draped some fabric over it, pinned in place, pinned two small darts, et voilà !

First, the petticoat (unironed, sorry...)

My battery died just after I took close-ups of the lace insertion in the front and of the tucks in the back...

Then the underskirt (the front pictue is blurry, which I only noticed after I had taken all layers off, and I'm too lazy to put 'em on again)

Better than this, heh ?

And because I'm mean, I didn't take pictures withe the bodice nor the dolman on, because it looks too damn good to be shown in an un completed status !

Now what ?

Feb. 11th, 2007 08:11 pm
green_martha: (Default)
Just finished reading the Half-Blood Prince - what the hell is *that* for an ending ?!? I want to know what happens next ! I have enough of George R.R. Martin (A Game of Thrones), Robin Hobb (Farseer Trilogy and its sequels) and Glenn Cook (Black Company) in cliffhanger matters ! Not Harry Potter too ! Tssss.... well, as I was orginally saying : I've just finished covering the buckram frame for my hat and I'm not sure how I should proceed next. I think I'll let it rest for some time until I have a mor eprecise idea of how to trim it. I've got ribbons, flowers, fabric scraps and lace, I just don't know yet how to throw it together... Pictures to be found here, not updated with this weeks small progress. Now, should I work on the dolman's closures or drape the underskirt ?
green_martha: (green)
I picked up my package... it's the litterary supplement of La Mode Illustrée. Still a kind of nice reading, and it was cheap but... well Maybe I'll be more lucky some other time. I keep looking for other bound editions of LMI on eBay, but they all get up really high in the last minute (or like, the last 5 seconds). Maybe I'll just buy some separate issues from provencechine and get [ profile] lady_darkstone to pick them up for me...

I got pressed by my german fellow costumers yesterday evening to cut out my buckram quite late at night. I even cut out the fabric parts for the hat, and thus had quite something to work on today at our Shadowrun session. The buckram base has been compeltely assembled ! Yay ! I've started covering the crown, but it's a bit late, I'm tired, working very slowly, and now going to bed.
I'm thinking about naming this the Troll hat, as I did most of the sewing while my dwarf urban shaman was lying unconscious after getting hit by a sleeping spell cast by a big troll magician. I don't like trolls. Bleh. Esp. when they work for the cinese mafia.
green_martha: (bustlecat)
The hat has been successfully mocked up ! Yay ! It's a bit different from the inspiration image, because though I love the shape, I can't exactly picture myself with such a big thing on the head. I have some pictures to show, but not of the finished mock-up, because my camera's battery died when the HG was snapping a final picture. And then the second battery wasn't charged and died just as I clicked on "import". The crown of the hat now has a womewhat larger base, so that the hat doesn't sit that far backwards anymore.
I kind of wanted to have a hat to handsew tomorrow on my break, well, no such thing. I think I'll bring my bodice and some linen and will start on my corset cover instead. Big tables at the tea-shop, enough to cut out a small piece of undies ;)

ETA : why do I always want to "chop" the tea, he ?
green_martha: (bustlecat)
But I still consider myself productive as it's almost done and my original planning didn't include both machiens acting up. I wish you all a good night and will proceed to catch up on the sleep I didn't get last night because thinking about my sewing machine kept me awake...
green_martha: (angry)
No matter how much I sew, I don't seem to make any progress ! This feeling of not moving any further is frustrating, even though I DO get a little something accomplished every day - just too little a little. Sadly, I can't do anythign against the fact that I don't have enough time, staying a bit late at work and with a few medical apointments lately... It buggers me that the things that have got to give are the ones I want to do the most, like sewing or dancing. Actually, ot sort of depresses me, I'm trying to avoid the un pleasant black hole by thinking at least a good part of the medical stuff will be over next week, and the job front should be cleared in two weeks.
I think I need a good book.

Anyway, on the actual sewing front...
Today was so slow at work (I mean... one person enters the shop every 30 minutes at best ? Am I to die of boredom ?) I actually took the bodice out of my bag and sewed. As a consequence, only one half of the lower hem (and a tiny bit at the neck) remains to be done. Good. (Now I hope it will snow tomorrow too, or reach the predicted minus 15 celsius, so that everyone stays at home and I get to sew the second half tomorrow :D) A propos bodice, I know just exactly how I want it to be finished, and thus, the amount of work needed - and I'll have to postpone a few things if I want it done for March. I'll make normal buttonholes, and will wait for another occasion to try my hands on bound ones, but I'll do them by hand, as I really hated how the machine-made ones looked on the HG's vest. Then there are some seams on the front, namely the centre front one and the one net to it on the right, which look a little odd to me, like they don't have a purpose and I could have drafted them out if I was brilliant enough (I certainly could have drafted the center front one out, I just hadn't thought the overlapping design over enough at that point). *But* they would really make sense if, for instance, the panel between them (center front right) had some specific embellishment. Yes, I do know it would have been easier to put a brocade applique on it before assembling the bodice, but you know, Martha = masochistic !

I also got the petticoat completely cut out, and my love affair with the linen ended at the very minute my scissors first met said fabric. It stretches in *every* direction, just when you're not looking at it, I'm sure it would stretch right into the fourth dimension if it could ! Of course, the cat found it funny to go play inside the fabric while I was cutting it, so that I had to recut one half of the back. And don't you even try to talk to me about the straicht or cross of grain. Both are twisted anyhow. The good news ? It's done. And I have lots of fabric left over, I'll be able to make a pretty corset cover and possibly something else out of it.

Good night LJ-Land ! (Since this is a semi-rant, I get to use my pink angry icon. I love it !)


green_martha: (Default)

October 2012



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