green_martha: (nerd baby)
It seems I can't comment anymore. I'm not ignoring anyone, I'm just experiencing some technical hindrances. :)
green_martha: (plates)
I have a pile of extant garments sitting just a few meters away from me ! Including a late 1890s bodice and a 1890s skirt...

Bodice : not the most perfect sewing skills, it has been worn a lot and altered in several places. The pleating in front and back is beaaaaaaauuutiful ! Concerning the details I'm presently looking at, the sleeves are lined ust the same as the bodice, without any kind of stiffening.

Skirt : it is NOT 6m50 wide at the bottom :) I haven't measured precisely yet, but somewhere between 3 and 4 meters. It has 10cm of cartridge pleats at the top in the back. The hem is stiffened with a 25cm high strip of a kind of glazed coutil - the same fabric that's used for the waistband. There's a small braided band, about 1,5cm wide, folded in half over the bottom edge of the skirt, and a mystery strip of blue silk, 3cm high, applied over the glazed coutil but under the braid on the inside.

[personal profile] heileen has put up a truckload of pictures up on her FlickR, includign a fa-bu-lous natural form bodice... Yum !
green_martha: (plates)
Another short note on the insides of the gigot sleeves ad matching skirts, from La Mode Illustrée (p. 70).

On March, 1st, 1896, they begin talking about "flat" sleeves, except for the very top of the sleeve. Or the sleeve can remain full, but with a vertical gathering thread running from shoulder to wrist and flattening the fullness. These two styles are still very new and the author isn't convinced they will last, though.
Long sleeves are "still" completely lined with starched muslin, just enough to prevent them from being too floppy.
Concerning skirts, they remain very wide (6m50 says the book), but the heavy stiff lining is now omitted. Some couture houses use a kind of light and flexible padding as an interlining. A simple 10cm high strip of horsehair is inserted at the hem.

This doesn't quite agree with what I found in my previous post - although both fashion chronicles were by the same author. That's... amusing.
I'm not translating those quotes very precisely, just compiling tricks to get the right shape for sleeves and skirts. If you want the exact wording, just go ahead and ask !
green_martha: (plates)
Okay, I started really going through all the text parts in my books.
On the 26th of January, 1896, La Mode Illustrée, pp. 30-31, says sleeves entirely lined with a stiff fabric are now a rarity (so they DID entirely line the sleeves before !). Sleeves should now only use a 20cm deep, 60cm long horsehair ruffle attached on the sleeve lining (between the lining and the fashion fabric), a little below the armhole, on the upper side of the arm only, not on the underside.
By the way, the text also says skirts are made of heavy woolen fabrics that don't require a lining. Skirts of lightweight fabrics and silk should be lined with a stiff fabric like horsehair, at least for the three box pleats in the backs.
There are a LOT more information tidbits in those texts, covering fabric advice, tips on how to refurbish an old dress, collar and cuff shapes... I just have to sieve through this. I will probably end up gathering all of it into some... thing, for my own use for this 1890s project. I have to think about this more, as I'm pretty sure it could be of interest to other costumers. Suggestions are always welcome :)
green_martha: (nerd baby)
Yesterday Murphy tried jumping over the railing at the top of the stairs. That wasn't a good idea as he can't see where he's going. He knocked a lamp down (one that was hooked to the wall over a big mirror), the lightbulb exploded, but thankfully the cat is unharmed. *shakes head*
This morning I got a kind of weird email. I think someone confused me with someone else - but it still made me happy as it offered some information I'll be sure to keep in my head for someday, later. I have the feeling life is throwing lemons at me as a very unsubtle hint that I should make some lemonade. :) Lots of ideas about my business project(s), and I managed to get some structural work done on the website as well.
And now, I noticed I must have been on crack when I scanned the La Mode magazines, because I put them all together in the 1913 folder while more than half of them date from 1914. I need to correct that while I'm editing the nodes.
I started mocking up the sleeve for my 1895-6 blouse, happily using [personal profile] jenthompson's work as a starting point. It's not bad, but not perfect either. I need to research what the innards of those gigantic sleeves looked like. Right now my gigot is a bit floppy. The stiffer taffetas will help some, but I suspect they did have a few other tricks back then...

Uh-oh...

Feb. 13th, 2012 07:46 pm
green_martha: (plates)
So the good news is : I've sewn some ! I thought the 1893 blouse from Ageless Patterns I had lying around was a good starting point and it was. It worked even better once I figured out the seam allowances were included in the pattern. Tried it on, adjusted the fit and I can now proceed to cutting out the lining. I also realised I could use it as a base for my corset cover as well. I'm glad I started from scratch again, I think this pattern block fits me slightly better than the previous one I was using - which would have needes adjusting anyway, as my body has changed some after two pregnancies.
While I made progress on the outerwear, I'm afraid more work will be necessary in the underwear department. My antediluvian corset is coming apart. The hook-and-eye tape I used instead of a busk in front is coming undone. I kinda fixed it, ghetto-style, but I doubt it'll last very long. So the 1890s corset I had planned has turned from a "oh, I'd like that one day" into an emergency. *sigh*
I tried the Erris pregnancy corset on, and the lacing on the sides just flatten my hips. And it has spiral steel rubbing against my ribs down the front, so I'm not planning on using this one again.
green_martha: (plates)
Before I go back to working on some mid-1890s stuff, I figured I might as well scan just a few images from my 1917 book. *big grin* It's not much, but there's a lot more to come. This morning I picked up the 1895 and 1896 books from La Mode Illustrée, I also have two other books from 1895 waiting. And there are still some pictures on my site awaiting text.
I have found a tartan blouse from 1895 tha I like, so I *think* I have a general concept of what I want the blouse to look like. Or two. I'm debating whether or not to line it and I'm leaning towards a lining. It will make it hang better. My 1893 blouse pattern says only wash goods blouses should be left unlined. As a bonus point, I could use the same lining as a base for the cream and green blouse as well.
green_martha: (plates)
I finished uploading the images and adding the descriptions today. This one is a loose issue (with pattern sheet !) from a magazine I haven't come accross that often, La Mode Pratique. After seeing this one almost disintegrate just from being scanned, I think the paper quality might have reduced the chances of this particular magazine to survive for long :/ Anyway, it's now up and I won't need to touch it to look at the pretties again. The search system is still very whacky, but at least we identified the issue precisely, that's something, right ? Now I just need my code-wizard husband to correct the issue...

Teasing !

Jan. 31st, 2012 04:29 pm
green_martha: (Default)

Yup, it's done and it just needs good pictures taken.
green_martha: (Default)
It was obviously needed (especially after climbing up to the sixth floor with the two kids, two bags and the stroller because the elevator was out of order, eek). I just spent two glorious hours mindlessly reading and browsing stuff on my laptop with a candle burning nearby. Talking of candles, I used to get either nauseous or coughing fits from all types of scented candles, but the ones Ikea currently sells are fine by me ! And they come in apple-cinnamon and CHOCOLATE ! I can have a chocolate-scented living-room ! Yay ! I am not a huge fan of eating chocolate, but the scent, hmmmm...
Now it's time for a tea, then tacking the last pleats in place, buttons, a label on the justaucorps, and then making it and the living-room ready for a photoshoot. This includes ordering LED lightbulbs online, so it might take a little more than a few hours.
And people ? Pleeeeaaase stop tempting me with fabric printing. Please don't do it, I don't have time for this !
green_martha: (nerd baby)
Oh encore du tissu !
That's a picture of last week's plunder. The beige thing underneath isn't a table, it's my new (sadly unbound) 1886 Mode Illustrée. Sadly it has been hit right in the middle where the pages used to be folded and they now tear veeeery easily there - but overall it's in good shape. I lost the teens books I was bidding on. *pouts* Mode Illustrée books from after 1900 don't seem to pop up as often as the bustle era ones on eBay but, oh well, you can't win them all, right ?
Besides, I just ordered Queen Maud's Wardrobe for half the retail price, and the new What Clothes Reveal. And a whole stack of children books for Heimlich. Like a BIG pile. I blame the book we haven't been able to hide from him yet that his Grandma (guess which side...) gave him for Christmas : ugly images, text is dumb as a brick and full of typos. It's now hidden behind a lot of more interesting stuff, with the shiny (yeah, metallic shiny !) turned to the wall.
Justaucorps status : it needs the front buttons and half a buttonhole sewn over. The interfacing (white, as I didn't have anything in a dark color) showed through the machine-made buttonholes after I had opened them. I tried recovering them with the machine. Bad idea #1. Then I went for handsewing and buttonhole thread. Bad idea #2. I don't know whether it's the thread that's just bad or if it's a combination of thread and fabric thickness. So I had to make do with the same sewing thread I used with the machine and hand-sewing. It may sound like a cardinal sin but it works. Except for the part where I keep jamming the eye of the needle into the flesh of my thumb, because the wool + interfacing are pretty thick and tightly woven and the needle slips from the thimble. Right into my thumb. But I'm almost done, I even managed to make steady progress over the last couple of days despite Toad only sleeping for 20 minutes on one afternoon and her being übercranky for most of the day yesterday. (I guess she just used up both kids crankiness potential for a while because they've been adorable today)
I decided to take some rest this week, so the children will be with Nounou on all weekdays. January has just been exhausting, both physically and mentally, so I'm taking advantage of our wonderful and helpful sitter. And maybe I'll be able to work a little bit for myself, like on a set-up to take better pictures of my costumes, or even on some sewing if I get to finish my next commission quickly enough.
green_martha: (jti)
I tried searching for the yardage requirements of some mid to late 1890s skirts, and all I got was "OMG you can't survive under 5 yards !!!".
I took the pattern pieces out of my trusty Ageless Patterns package (don't remember the number, but the skirt is perfect and the jacket is pretty close), laid them out on the blue wool... I might have to piece a teeny tiny bit the side, but it fits ! Hahah, take THAT 5 yards ! (I have something like 2,5 yards)
Still, I haven't found tha tmany examples of strong color contrasts for the last years of the 19th century, so I'm considering using a brown wool twill I inherited from my Grandma.
I went fabric shopping today, and came back with a mauve and white shot taffetas for a petticoat, purple and black tweed for a commission, some stark white fine cotton for underwear, and I couldn't pass up the check taffetas in green and cream. It shall become another 1890s blouse to go with the brown skirt. It also works with my existing 1898 skirt, and it would look awesome as a complete day dress... Decisions decisions...
green_martha: (nana)
And it feels weird that I'm turnign into a researcher, me, the "OMG it's prettiz I wants its "-girl. I'm looking through my magazines collection, compiling tartan occurrences and looking at silk vs. plain petticoats and at how to get the correct fullness at the bottom. Mighty ruffles of Doom ! Lots and lots of ruffles on top of ruffles on top of flounces on top of... You get the picture.

First, I need to make myself some actual clothes to wear for Easter-shmeaster-when-do-we-do-this-Heileen-? I'm looking for plaid blouses, because I have four meters of plaid taffetas, and this photograph has made me want to make an 1890s plaid blouse for years.
Now the questions :
- which year do I choose ? I have a soft spot for some 1895-96 designs, but tartan really does seem typical of 1897-98. The sleeves would be a little more work, as I haven't yet found patterns or diagrams for those, but I could go a little more crazy on the trim. And I have a bazillion skirt patterns/cutting diagrams at hand.
- OMG I have to choose a fabric ! The blouse itself is settled. I have some silk remnants from my wedding dress that coordinate quite well and would make nice accents. I'm leaning towards some wool or the like for the skirt.
Option one would be the same short plush I used for my 1885 dolman. I then have different shades of wool* twills that might work, one more reddish brown, one a lighter brown. It also suddenly occurred to me there's a hint of light blue-grey in the plaid, and I have the world's prettiest lightweight blue wool*, but alas, only 2 meters. I doubt I can wing an entire bell skirt out of that.

The skirt won't get done for a while, though. First I will concentrate on the blouse and make the waistband of my existing 1898 skirt a smidge larger - I made the skirt before Heimlich, it's a little too tight now, not much, I don't expect to have to move the zipper**.
Then I'll need proper petticoats, because I'm ashamed of the ones I have, and after I've read a very complete description of a fashionable 1898 silk petticoat, I can't see a way to alter my existant ones to my satisfaction. Now if only I could find a nice, cheap taffetas with rosebuds or B&W stripes (it can be synthetic, as long as it's not screaming "Polyester !" too loudly, but it has to be cheap). And lace. I need yards and yards of lace.
Then probably the rest of the underwear : chemise, drawers, corset cover.

And only after that am I allowed to make plans for the next ensemble... but the dark turquoise wool is talking to me in my sleep :p


*all wools courtesy of my grandmother's hidden mighty wool stash of doom that we found while emptying the house. It filled about 1/4th of her wardrobe, and she didn't even sew !
**Yes, it has a zipper, I wear it in everyday life, so it got everyday conveniences.
green_martha: (duckie)
... you make me want to wrap myself in ham and dance around in the moonlight.

You are making me CRAZY !
I want to see 1890s petticoats, so I suspect those would show up in a 1800-1900, Textiles, "Petticoat" search. No 1902 négligé. No 1998 Dior dress. No fishermen photograph. No 1750 court dress. PETTICOATS, I just want to look at those damn petticoats ! *sobs*
Also, what tells you the bottom of this piece was "meant to be seen" ? Cause it's pretty ? I have a lot of pretty lingerie, I had a lot of pretty lingerie before I even met my husband. I don't go around naked in it. 66cm is pretty short for a petticoat that's supposed to be seen in 1903. Also, considering half of your petticoats from the period are either colored or even patterned, I wouldn't say color is "unusual" for the late 19th century... It's also nice that the "petticoat, linen" search turns up a few cotton ones that didn't show up in the "petticoat, cotton" search. No linen petties in sight, though...

So yeah, I can't sleep and I've started researching 1890s undies.
green_martha: (Default)
Toad slept through the night, a little over 12 hours straight last night, yay ! I can't tell you how relieved we both are. She's been having bad nights ever since she got out of the hospital, and last week was particularly rough. So rough the neighbors noticed. She woke up at the most irregular times, she was fine as long as one of us (or better yet : both of us) was holding her. Then she was smiling and playing. But sleeping ? Oh noes ! A few times we managed to lull her back to sleep after a bottle of milk, but sometimes there wasn't anything to do about it.
This means we were both really, really tired (oh yeah, because the HG has been sick as well, and completely drained from it and thus no help in the household for some days), so when I kinda crashed yesterdya evening, he told me to just do something that makes me feel good. So I went to eBay for some retail therapy of the costumer's kind. How long do you think it'll take for my new 1886 book to arrive ? :D I have my eye on some teens stuff as well. I blame you all for putting me in the mood for Titanic/Downton Abbey costumes ! I don't have time for this ! I have nowhere to wear it ! Tsk tsk tsk... :)
The justaucorps is hemmed, next are buttonholes, but ThePrincess is extremely loud and the kids are asleep. So I just *have* to start on the next thing on my list : 1890s !
My corset is still okay until I have a good chunk of time to make a new one, so I'll be starting on the rest of the undies. My current ones are a mish-mash of different periods and mostly in somewhat thick materials. I have better fabrics now, and I want a really pretty set of undies. I oviously need a few really good petticoats to get the right bell shape for the skirts, as well.
green_martha: (duckie)
Everything is covered in the white fluffy stuff outside, I'm started to think if the weather keeps up, we might actually get a white Christmas. For the first time in my entire life. I'm not 100% thrilled with it though, because snow means bad roads, and I need reasonably good roads to drive up to Lady Darkstone for Yule celebration. I have lots of thoughts rambling in my head right now, just not enough TIIIIME. Dammit, why do days only have 24 hours ? Can't I get another 12 hours ? Possibly while the kids are napping ? :)
Okay, so, sewing.
I'm almost done with my Warm(tm) pants for Friday. At first I was going with just polar fleece. Then oh ! I could add a lining - great use of the mystery poly-maybe-silk blend I bought ages ago for wedding decoration and we never used. Then oh ! And I still have batting leftover from the quilted outfit, let's add another layer for warmth ! So now they're extra warm, if a little bulky. The zipper is in, I need to finish the waist drawstring and hem them. In the meantime I have proven yet again that I am insane and have done some pretty wool sashiko-like embroidery on them. Cause that's what I do when I need a pair of warm pants in a hurry. Oh yeah, and I completely drafted the pattern from scratch (with the help of The Costumer's handbook, may [personal profile] demode be blessed for ever bringing that book to my attention). Pants in a hurry, I tell you...
Pictures ? Yes, that's right, I should take pictures. :)
green_martha: (gps)
I got my minimum of three good prints done this afternoon ! So so SO happy ! On top of that, I spent the afternoon with some adorable ladies in the school's workshop. Such a change to work next to people who actually know their stuff - compared to the bunch of headless hens we have on Wednesday who still don't get in which order you put plate and paper under the press /o\ Well, we're taking bets with Lady Darkstone as to how long they'll last.
green_martha: (ravenclaw)
Funny how I just need to start writing a post that says "I can't find the right buttons" without finding them indeed. So that means I need to sew 18 buttonholes for the justaucorps, plus six decorative buttons, and that will leave me with six more spare buttons - possibly to be used on a matching waistcoat. That's a lot of buttonholes... I'll probably make them with ThePrincess, saving myself some handewign throught way too many thick layers, but still... Oy.
The hem is marked. I thought for a minute about hemming the thing tonight, looked a tmy watch, and decided it was a Bad Idea (tm) to do anything else than marking things at this time.
Now that I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel, I'm started to get all excited about my next project(s) !
I need to redo my wool surcot, th bottom needs to be wider for me to be able to actully walk and sit in it - as is, it's more a decoative costume than a functionnal everyday item of clothing. It should be the later.
I've had plans for months now to make myself some 14th century stuff (as in : fitted, supportive top, wide gored skirt). Not sure I'm excited enogh about it to actually make them. Plus, the red itchy patch above my left eye tells me I should stay away from wool for a while, and I'm pretty sure I don't have enough polar fleece (I need something *warm*).
So this leaves the option I'm the most excited about : 1890s !!!!!!!!! <= Yeah, THAT excited ! I'm not sure what I'll make exactly for the planned outing in the Spring. I still need to check I can do with my current victorian corset (or have to make a new one), but I should have most fabrics in stock (for the outer layer). Brown velveteen, tartan taffetas, some orange wool and/or silk. Yay ! Of course I want to go all over the top with this, but the more rationnal part of me tells me I might not have the time. We'll see, it depends a lot on whether or not I need a new corset... See ? all that babbling to say I just don't know yet hat I'll make Excited I tell you !
green_martha: (Default)
Nothing very interesting sewing-wise. I figured out I had forgotten facings for the justaucorps, started adding them, am now tired.
Mostly, I've been baking. I have one full box of Zimt-no-quite-Sterne... Some Zimtsterne, and then Zimtschweine, Zimtglöckchen, Zimtmonde... The star cookie-cutters were just too small, so I used the bigger ones. The HG particularly loves the pig ones :) I have a big batch of Anisplätzle drying overnight, and two rolls of Vanillekipferln dough in the fridge which I want to make into actual cookies tomorrow. Yum yum yum !
I'm also on Pinterest now, and trying desperately to follow some of you guys but something's not quite cooperating until now.
*yawn* I finished the Zimtsterne way too late last night, now it's time for bed, night night world !

Sweet !

Nov. 21st, 2011 04:38 pm
green_martha: (believe)
Both kids have been blissfully quiet for over an hour now (and when I say quiet, I don't mean "I can't har my daughter because she lost her voice" (yup, poor thing, but otherwise she's just fine), I mean not a single noiseà), so I've been able to cut out the remaining pocket pieces for the justaucorps. I'm taking pictures as I go to make a small tutorial on my french blog (unless someone here is all 3OMG I need it pluhleeze !"). Of course I started with on idea in mind for the pocket flap and changed my mind halfway as I found a small fabric scrap big enoug to fit the underside of the flap. :)

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October 2012

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