Feb. 23rd, 2012

green_martha: (plates)
Another short note on the insides of the gigot sleeves ad matching skirts, from La Mode Illustrée (p. 70).

On March, 1st, 1896, they begin talking about "flat" sleeves, except for the very top of the sleeve. Or the sleeve can remain full, but with a vertical gathering thread running from shoulder to wrist and flattening the fullness. These two styles are still very new and the author isn't convinced they will last, though.
Long sleeves are "still" completely lined with starched muslin, just enough to prevent them from being too floppy.
Concerning skirts, they remain very wide (6m50 says the book), but the heavy stiff lining is now omitted. Some couture houses use a kind of light and flexible padding as an interlining. A simple 10cm high strip of horsehair is inserted at the hem.

This doesn't quite agree with what I found in my previous post - although both fashion chronicles were by the same author. That's... amusing.
I'm not translating those quotes very precisely, just compiling tricks to get the right shape for sleeves and skirts. If you want the exact wording, just go ahead and ask !

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green_martha

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